Monday, April 12, 2010

Hey Luxembourg is only a 45 minute train ride away!









Well well well. Here I am back on the writing board, about to write a post about yet another travel. Honestly I am enjoying writing a lot. I have recently picked up reading and I feel like I missed out on so much not having read all these years. But nonetheless, I feel that I have become more eloquent and expressive in my speech and my writing.

So getting to the part about the travel! I prefer to call it 'discovery' as sometimes we go far and wide, miles away looking for unique treasures, when all we need to do is look in our own background. As I have been mentioning in my last few posts, I am falling more and more in love with Metz. I think the onset of Spring and the brilliantly sprouting lilac's and yellows of the flowers are bringing out the beauty of the city.
After an overnight trip to Paris to see my mom and sister I was back in Metz on Friday in time for class. This weekend was going to be a relaxed one as we only had 2 days this time. Nonetheless we ended up in Cafe Comedie, a new york style bar located off the river. The bar during happy hours serves up some delicious brews. Off course the night wasn't complete without a beer at Le Berthom. In the midst of all the crazed traveling and classes, some of us hadn't really hung out in a while and it was great to catch up with no trains to catch or tests to worry about. An evening full of great conversations and beer ended with an absolutely wonderful sleep.

Ahh now comes the traveling bit. Saturday morning. The sun was shining in all its glory and sunshine was pouring into my room when I opened my eyes at about half past 8. My partner in 'discovery' was going to be Sinan this day. Sinan Sinharoy is one of the most interesting mixes of people I've met. With a dad who is from West Bengal in India and mom from Turkey, that is one delicious household. We had planned to go to Luxembourg for the day and the day seemed perfect for an excursion. Before we left for Luxembourg, we intended to check out the fresh market next to the cathedral we had heard off. The market was splendid. With vendors selling fruits, vegetables, meats and cheese to umbrella's and clothes. Some people sold only eggs and honey. It's great to see trade still take place like this. Walking around the market under the sky, we bought ourselves a lunch of rotisserie chicken and some sort of Turkish bread. As we munched on our food in that bustling market amongst the locals, we felt like locals!

We took the 2 o clock train to Luxembourg. Luxembourg is only a 45 minute train ride north of Metz. The country is divided into three main principalities with Luxembourg City being the main one. It is the only remaining sovereign grand Duchy in the world with a population of a little over half a million and the highest GDP in the world. It was evident as soon as we got off the train that this was an affluent place. The cars, the way people dressed and even the stores suggested that it was a small but rich country. The guy at the information desk told us that everything that needed to be seen, all 30 attractions were in a 2 km circle.
We started walking slightly and soon discovered that the city is actually located on hills and there was a huge valley we could see below while crossing one of the bridges towards the city center. The city was bustling, with Germans, French, Britishers and Luxembourgers who speak something called Luxembourgish.(It's a mix of French and German and has a sing song ring to it) The streets were typically European, narrow and winding between houses. Though similar to Metz and some other French cities, there seemed to be an upmarket feel in everything. The restaurants looked trendier, stores looked boutique, clothes looked chic and cars looked shiny. The sun with all it's glory gave every one reason enough to descend on this small city/country. We turned a corned and found the city center. A big square lined with restaurants on either side, and teeming with people in their Sunday best. We sat their lounging and eating for a while, chatting and completely relaxed.

It was about 4 o clock when we stumbled upon something sublime. Now my favorite part of 'discovery' is the haphazardness and randomness of it all. I love having nothing planned. Just a destination and the thirst to see new things and Sinan was the perfect partner for this. As we looked down at the valley far below, it looked like a complete different world from where we were. Soon enough we were down there, and began our actual discovery. We had almost suddenly gone from a bustling and expensive area to the quaintest and most charming part of town. It was almost like this was a village of Luxembourg. The most beautiful small houses lined the roads, a river flowed at a leisurely pace, and the only thing you could hear or see were the birds. It was gorgeous. We walked through what seemed to be a 'village'. Nature was literally in our face as we walked and walked completely in awe. Every now and then we would see a trendy brasserie in the middle of nowhere, or a Italian restaurant run from a house on the river. The river had a huge fortress built on it at one point. This was from the older times and was beautifully integrated into the joggers path. The path we took would go up on a hill, then come down on a set of stairs on the fort, before opening onto an expanse of green and then quickly narrowing next to the river. All the while we walked around the V shaped valley, we saw very trendy and up market cafe's and boutique stores in the most unusual places. The area was called Grund and it was a chic little part of this 'lower' Luxembourg. And just like that our path lead us onto a step farm, on a lovely opening of land.

I think I cannot justice to the place and I am going to post some pictures to talk to show what we saw.

As the sun was setting, me and Sinan stood on the same bridge we had walked on in afternoon, looking at the entire valley that we had just walked through, and there was a calm. I realized how glad I was to have made the decision of being in France!

Au Revoir Luxembourg we said! Enchantez!

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Metz, Another Home!

Day after tomorrow I would have been in France for 3 months. As cliched as it sounds and as cliched does saying that it sounds cliched sounds, time has flown away! I have realized that I have more European in me than American. The way of life in the US is different. The pace is hectic and there is little time to soak in everything that is going on. Being in Europe, living life the European way has been amazing. People work here but not at the cost of the small joys of life like enjoying an espresso out in the open in the sun, or that walk next to the lake, or just the pleasure of buying fresh baguettes every evening at the local Boulangerie! It is not untrue that the French love their Bread, their wine and their cheese. Honestly, what is there not to like! The French are a very proud people who love their language and their lifestyle a little too much for their own good..... But this has become home now. Another home I must add..

I came to Metz about 3 months ago not knowing what to expect from the city. I still remember when I first arrived in Metz, after having left home more than 24 hours before and having missed a flight and a train, as I came out of the station, snow was falling ever so silently as the big Christmas tree outside the station soared into the sky glittering. I remember an instant smile swiping across my face and all my tiredness evaporating as I got the first glimpse of my new home. Little did I know I would soon fall in love with this place they call Metz(Pronounced Mess).

Metz is the capital of the Lorraine region and is economically and geographically a very important region. Germany and France have been in the past involved in a tug for this region, and it has at times been a German city. As a result, in many parts of the city you can find German influences like the extensive use of wood in houses.
Metz is an industrial and technical hub with many technical schools in the region along with a lot of industry. But what makes Metz the city it is, is the simple people of the town. Even though not one of the bigger or richer cities of France, people look happy and content. It is not unusual to exchange pleasantries with people at stores or in the markets or just on the road in general.

Like everyone else, I too came into France with the notion that the French are rude and arrogant and not at all helpful. What I have found in my 3 months here is absolutely to the contrary. One thing I have to say though is that you have to make an effort to speak their language. They see you trying and they will be extremely helpful. From Paris to Perpignian, I have had some great experiences with French people, especially when I have been in a dire need for help. I think it is the loud and insensitive tourists that get the cold shoulder here and it is those few incidents that have made the French infamous. Or maybe it is just my love for the language and my continued to efforts to speak it that I haven't had many bad experiences.

So what do I do in Metz? Where do I stay? What do I cook? What's my favorite bar?...
My apartment here one of the most charming and reasonably priced one person apartments I've seen. The place where we live is a residence complex which is sort of like a dorm. The 4 halls are color coordinated and I happen to live on the Green one. The wall,s doors and floors in the halls are of the particular color of the hall. In each hallway there are doors that open into a spacious one person apartment with an attached kitchen and bathroom. The space isn't the biggest but the the designs are such that even the space is utilized really efficiently making the room look very spacious and comfortable. I absolutely love my room. I cook a lot often experimenting with spices and meats and sauces which we all happily eat in groups over delicious vines and beers.

Back to the city of Metz. Now even though I have traveled a lot outside of Metz, I have had the chance to spend a good amount of time in Metz as well. One of the first things I had seen, was an old Concentration camp called Fort Queuleu literally 10 minutes walking from where we stay. The first time I had gone was after hours and we had actually snuck in. It was a full moon night and the moonlight shone of the white snow to give it an eerie feel. One could see where the prisoners must have been held back in the day on the massive premise.
Also very close to where we stay is an old cemetery with graves dating back to the 1700's.
The Moselle river runs through the city and actually runs all the way into Germany and meets with the Rhine there. On the river is an old deserted protestant church that looks magnificent when the sun shines down on it. Next to this church is the Place de la Comedie which is actually the oldest running Theater in France. It has a wide Facade with cobble stoned roads leading to it. On the other side of the river is the Cathedral of Saint Etienne. Absolutely unmissable, it rises high and takes over the whole frame when you look at it even from far away. It is one of the bigger cathedrals I have seen in Europe. The interior is grand and high with the stained glass work one of the best I have seen. From the cathedral you can walk into the narrow alleys and cobblestone roads that are lined with boutique stores and bars and shops that comprise this city center. It is fun getting lost in these alleys and then stumbling upon an interesting bar or restaurant. One of my favorite parts of the city center is the Place Saint Jacques. The square is lined by bars and restaurants on all sides, and all of them lay out chairs and tables once the winter cold is gone. People throng the square when the sun's out and it's a pleasure to have a beer or a gelato as you relax at this square.
Something that one comes across a lot in Western Europe at least is Turkish and Lebanese Kebab joints. It's almost like comfort food. Soft pita like bread, filled with Shawarma meat, topped with tomatoes, lettuce, onions and the works and topped with a special white sauce, served with Frites or Fries. The meal is an absolute to die for and every place makes it a little different.
Talking about food, I have to speak about beverages as well. As far as watering holes are concerned, there are plenty, and to be honest I haven't been to many but that's because I found the best one right at the start. Its called Les Berthom or the tree bar and is located close to Place Saint Jacques. The place as the name suggests has trees growing within or at least that's what it seems like. The colors inside our different browns and from the tables to stools to the bar top is 'tree' like colors. My reason for visiting it often is their Happy hours during which you get 2 for the price of 1 on their selection of Belgian Tap Beers. They have a good selection of Beers, but more than anything it is absolutely Fresh and lives you literally smacking your lips.
If that didn't get you excited there are many other bars in town including a few Irish pubs. The Cafe Comedie that overlooks the river is another very interesting bar serving unique shots to go with the beers. Their are also clubs in town but unfortunately I haven't been able to find time to go. Tiffany and Guess club seem to be two of the more trendy clubs.

The other day when my mom and my sister were in town, and then did I see my city from their eyes, that I realized how charming a place this is. From Latin,Roman and German influences, this is a very eclectic town which prides itself on its art and theater while not failing to identify itself as truly French city!

Metz has become my home. This might sound unusual but Metz has become more a home than even Atlanta even though I have stayed there for longer. Maybe it's the people, maybe it's the atmosphere or maybe it's just the timing. My semester here is turning out to be great for a number of reasons other than the traveling as well. Though I still plan to travel to other great European cities, I can safely say that the memories of Metz will always remain imprinted in my heart!

Je manquerai cette ville et les personnes ici beaucoup!!


(p.s: Pictures to all my blogs will come soon. Sorry it looks really drab and boring right now)

Saturday, April 3, 2010

C'est Paris!! Enough Said!

I know it's been a while since I last posted so here is something for the lovers and romantics at heart! There should also be a post about Italy coming up soon!
Well for the few who do read this, and I think there are a few of you who occasionally, when all other modes of entertainment exhaust, glance through this. Thank you for reading!

So if the title of this blog hadn't given it away, I am spending this weekend in Paris. Yes Paris! And that too with my mom and sister. Now I had also been to Paris in my initial few weeks here in France but never blogged about that, so I might add some stuff from that trip as well. Alright here goes...

Paris!! I had been here two times before and transited through almost every other week. When my mom told me that her plan had finalized about a month back, apart from the excitement to meet them, I was really excited at the prospect of being a tourist in the city of dreams. Now you see, I am a student on a shoestring budget,typically cutting corners everywhere. My family coming meant that I would get to stay in a hotel and do things that I might not otherwise due to a lack of funds!

I am pretty accustomed to taking the train from Metz to Paris EST now. After precisely 1 hour and 23 minutes, the train rolled into Paris on a slightly chilly and wet Friday afternoon. I am pretty used to the routine by now. Go from Paris EST to Paris Nord. Take the RER B straight to Terminal 1 of the Airport. I did this munching away at fries I bought at McDonalds and deeply engrossed in the book I am reading. I got there just in time to pick mom and sis up and after the initial hug's and hello's I was ready to 'show off' my French. And mind you it's not too bad. After a long cab ride, costing 'don't even ask', we arrived at our hotel, Les Jardins Du Marais, in the 11th Quartier de Paris. Paris to clarify is divided into 20 quarters or quartiers. The hotel a very charming 4 star property, had a contemporary look from the outside while still exuding that warmth an old property does. Our suite, a good sized two rooms with attached kitchenettes and bathrooms, was more than enough for the 3 of us.

Soon after settling in, we left, with both mom and sister marveling at each and every building and cafe. It's then that I realized the sheer amount of street side cafe's and brasseries Paris has. It was slightly gloomy, as rain fell every now and then, but each others presence and the ambiance of a typical Parisian brasserie made it quite the contrary. I enjoyed a big British pint(500ml,0.5L) of Leffe(A Belgian Beer) and we talked about Paris and France and all things magical. For dinner we found a little Italian Pizzeria run by a very friendly old Italian man. As I continued to impress with my French, I discovered the man's family were from Ventigmiglia, a small Italian town on the Franco Italian border. And as it turned out I had been there a few weeks ago(Mention of it in the next post. It'll be a fun read.Promise) and that made him real chatty with us. The food was delicious. We shared a pizza and a prawn pasta in a tomato sauce. We had a big chunk of Gorgonzola to go with the bread and some Proseco(Poor Italian country cousin of Champagne). After a very scrumptious dinner and very interesting conversations it was time to retire. It had been a while since I had been in a nice hotel, and since we were staying in one, I was excited. As I lay in my Queen size bed, with extra large pillows, a cosy quilt and a full stomach, it didn't take long for me to fall into my sleep... Some other part of Paris was to be discovered tomorrow...

We were ready to leave at 9:30 the next morning.. Still gloomy outside but it seemed like the sun was trying to peek out from behind the grayish clouds. Nevertheless are plans included starting at the Arc De Triomphe and walking to the Eiffel Tower(La Tour Eiffel), accompanied with grabbing a baguette or something somewhere on the way. The last time I was in Paris, in the beginning of February, I was with my Friend who is studying at Sciences Po; A very Prestigious University in France. We had roamed all day passing through alleys and cobble stone roads. We roamed the Latin Quarters, which are on the other side of the Seine from the Louvre. A chic area frequented by students because of the presence of the Universities in the region. We had sat at a cafe and I remember drinking the best Chocolat Chaud; Warm and frothy, with the perfect amount of sweet chocolate, while still tasting like a mature beverage! We had roamed the streets and she had told me about the hangouts of the young Parisians. Cafe Oz in Chatelet was one such place. We had lunched in the 'Jardin du Luxembourg' across from the Iconic Louvre Pyramid while watching daring pigeons scavenge-ring around people to grab any crumbs of bread or even more. It was a good day. I didn't go see the Eiffel tower, or Notre Dame, or Champs Elysees as I had done all that in my first visit with a dear friend Niren from high school in 2008. Interesting fact: That trip was actually the one where I met my love later in Nottingham.
We got off the taxi at the Arc De Triomph on the famous Champs Elysees. The magnificent arc that is a memorial for soldiers from the Napoleonic wars. The place as always was thronged by tourists of all colors. Paris interestingly is one of the most visited places alongside New York and London. (I feel privileged saying that I have already been to all those places) Walking down the Champs Elysees, window shopping at one of the hundreds of designer brands, we were actually walking towards the Tour Eiffel. Walking without a planned route always results in the discovery of hidden treasures. As we turned off the Champs Elysees, we hit a wide tree lined street, with top end labels on both sides. Yet the street was quiet and had an understated elegance about it.
The Tour Eiffel was unmissable now, and despite having seen it a number of times from a number of different angles, from a number of locations and at a number of different times of the day, it still looked magical. It looked different. The clouds made an excellent backdrop and it peeked from behind the buildings and trees we were walking in front off. The Eiffel Tower, it really is that magical! Unfortunately our plans to climb it were put on halt till another time as there was an obscene amount of people queuing up to climb the erstwhile tallest building of the world. ( Hard to believe now with something like the Emirates tower in Dubai isn't it.)
Having stopped at a Parisian cafe for a quick bite we returned to the hotel to re-energize and leave again later.
From my various travels and experiences in some of the major cities in the world, there is a few similarities I find. Big cities mean big traffic, and big traffic means angry drivers. Whether New Delhi or New York, people seem angry on the streets. Though not quite as bad in Paris, there is still an uneasiness on the roads not typical of this continent. Another similarity is the presence of umpteen amounts of vendors of from a hundred different countries. It is always interesting to observe their sales pitch as all of them are essentially selling the same things. I won't lie, I have been prey to these enterprising and persistent salesmen in some part of the world or the other.
....

Marais is an interesting part of town, lined with boutique and home grown designer stores. It promises some great shopping. It also has a number of popular bars that are literally overflowing with people onto the streets in the early evening. We roamed the roads as the shops were closing, as the sun slowly set, as lights started illuminating on every nook, cranny and corner. What makes Paris magical is the multitude of lights. It's one of those things that is hard to describe. From the Tabac's (Small convenience stores) to fancy restaurants, 'lights will guide you through.' (Sorry I couldn't resist).

Sparkling lights all around, the ever so beautiful French in the air, the smell of the myriad perfumes emanating from the immaculately dressed people mixing beautifully with the smell of Fresh bread and coffee, and the Eiffel tower as a backdrop, as you eat your croissant or sip that fresh pint of beer. Tell me you don't believe in Falling in Love! It's the sum of the parts that makes Paris what it is!

A fitting end to the night was to be in Montmarte. Montmarte or more famously the Artist's square is located on top of a mountain, which has the most Spectacular view of the city. It is one of the best Panoramas followed very closely by Firenze (Florence. To be talked about in the next blog). Montmarte used to be a very poor region and was a home to many famous artists. Rich people came to this part of town to get their portraits made and soak in the splendor of the city from top. Today, it's touristy and one of the richest parts of town. Though the view is as magnificent as ever, offering a splendid view of the vista that is Paris, with the Eiffel Tower glittering away in the East in all its glory, the square is pretty touristy. Lots of tourist shops flock the streets leading upto Montmarte and even the restaurants in the square are a little pricey. The atmosphere though is unlike you would find anywhere else. Artists of all kinds flock the area from morning till evening trying to sell their art to anyone that might be interested. From painters who paint scenes of Paris, to portrait sketchers to even artists that go up to people at their table as they sip coffee and start painting them. I was a victim and ended up paying 20 euros for a caricature of myself! Being there one could imagine the days of Picasso and others sitting on that hill painting the myriad colors of Paris.

I am sitting in our hotel room. I think I have fallen in Love with this city. After having been here many a time, it was only until I roamed the streets of this city with open eyes of wonderment and glee that I fell in love with it. Tomorrow we plan to roam the gardens of the Louvre and hopefully climb the Eiffel tower.... I cannot wait for tomorrow. I cannot wait to fall more in love with cette ville!

Au Boulangeries, A La Tour Eiffel et a L'Amour!!!

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Travelling in True Backpacker style, Almost!






This post is coming a little late as I had a very special visitor this past weekend in Metz. This special little visitor is actually my 'love interest.' Not to mention, the weekend that began late Wednesday night with her arrival and lasted all the way through Monday night, was absolutely wonderful! This past week has been absolutely beautiful; just the way Spring should be; Sunny and warm. On Friday we ended up renting bikes and riding around Metz along the Moselle river that actually joins the Rhine in Germany. I hadn't realized how pretty Metz was until I saw it glowing in the sunshine the other day. Streets bustling with people of all ages, birds chirping, the sun reflecting off the river and the smells of fresh patisseries and boulangeries.

As much as I would like to write about my time with my 'love' this weekend, this post is rather about the weekend before in Italy and the French South coast. Before I begin I need to introduce a character. A true traveler from the far east. How do I describe this man. Holder of an American passport,mom who lived in Cuba, a dad who was Italian, and raised in the Philippines. Having petted exotic snakes and monkeys as a kid, 'Jungle boy' is his middle name! This is one man that is thirsty for adventure and will do anything to survive. Since the first trip we made to Reims early in the semester, we at once had a third world connection. We both hail from busy and hectic cities. We both know what it takes to get around; what it takes to survive as a matter of fact. The name was Mangiamelli. Josiah Mangiamelli!

With him being a forth Italian, and me just an adorer off food, it was inevitable that a trip to Italy needed to happen. After having experienced the flava and the colour of Spain, I knew I had to go to Italy soon. We readied ourselves. I reached the station in a huff as usual, leaving my class early and just getting on the bus that would get me to there just in time before a nice long 12-14 hour train journey, but it was not to be. As has been the problem with the Eurorail all throughout my time here, is that most of the times the Eurorail seats on the trains you want our booked. I wonder how many seats they have, because it is really annoying especially after you have paid top dollar (or Euro) to get this train pass, which you thought you could freely travel with. In the case that the lady behind the counter, sags her head, and with a very solemn face tells you, "Je suis desole, les trains sont occupent."(I am sorry the trains are occupied). At first I used to be dejected but I have come to learn that you are not to give up and ask them to get you to your destination any which way possible.
It might take a good 10-12 hours to get you there, but heck how else am I going to abuse my train pass.
We were supposed to take a train to Milan overnight and be in Florence by mid afternoon, but we could only manage to get ourselves overnight sleepers to Nice, which is on the south east coast of France. As long as we are going somewhere we said to ourselves. We made another pact before we boarded the train, we were not going to get any hostels and spend less than 60 euros.

The thing about overnight trains is that they somehow move at speeds, that lull you into sleep right away while chugging away through the night. After being comfortably asleep for about 10 or so hours, as I got down my bunk and opened the massive window in our compartment, my jaw dropped! Outside, all I saw was the 10am sun shining on the Mediterranean as the waves gently hit the coast. On the other side were hills with houses on slopes. We had a connection from Nice to Ventimiglia, the border town on the Italian side. The train ride from Nice to Ventimiglia was by far the most beautiful one I have been on. The ocean on one side and the mountains on the other, the train made it's way though rock cut tunnels and small towns as we entered Italy, just like that! Now completely up, and with a smile on our faces because of the weather and the scenery, the adventurers in us started to surface. This small Italian town looked ideal. Local crowd, quiet beaches and beautiful weather. We decided to stay put and spend the day there before heading to Firenze(Florence). After cleaning up a little, and roaming around a bit in the small town, we decided to go to Monaco or Monte Carlo for a few hours before we would explore Ventimiglia. It was a 30 minute train ride back to France.

I have grown up watching Fomula 1. Every other Sunday afternoon, sitting with my dad in our living room, we would have our eyes glued to the screen as the Schumacher's and Hakkinen's and Alonso's scorched even our measly TV screen. Every season, there was one Grand Prix that I would anxiously await all year long; The Monaco grand prix. What made this track so special was the fact that it was the only street circuit, with people packed into houses, hotels and shops, while cars zoomed past narrow roads at around 300kmph. The room for error was minimal.
Walking out of the station in the Principality of Monte Carlo(It's under French laws but not French) all I wanted to do was walk the track. The track I had watched and raced on in video games countless times. Monte Carlo is a Tax Free 'Country' so as a result the whose who of France and the world end up buying property or yachts here. All of Monte Carlo fits in a valley! Small, posh and luxurious is how I will describe this mountain 'country.' No wonder the richest sport in the world, F1, has been coming here for years.
To actually walk the track was a dream and I actually did. It wasn't too hard to find it as I just went towards the coast and followed my instincts at first. Though it looks very different from during race time, some things our undoubtedly Monaco. The Rascase turn, the hair pin turn at the hotel and the tunnel. We leisurely walked the little under 4km track, while seeing the other sights of Monte Carlo. Expensive stores, hotels and casions is all that lined the narrow and up and down roads. After having walked the whole track, and pretty much seen the whole place, we walked up to the castle of Monte Carlo, that gave us a stunning view of the whole valley. At a distance you could see the valley end, and maybe another town and on clearer day's you could probably see Italy in the distance.

We left Monte Carlo to go back to Ventimiglia. It was around 3pm when we got back and we were starving. We still had some boiled eggs and cheese we had carried from home. There was a local farmers market, and we decided to buy some fresh bread and meat to make some sandwiches. After using my French to buy two different kinds of fresh sandwich meats and a loaf of fresh hearty bread, we sat down on the rocks facing the Mediterranean, prepared ourselves scrumptious sandwiches and sat there eating! At that moment and a few more on this trip, I felt like nothing could be more perfect!
As I mentioned earlier, we are crazy adventurers, and for some reason we had decided to bathe in the Mediterranean. Now when we had decided that, it was sunny and warm in the day, but by the time we actually got to doing it, the temperature had dropped to below 10 degree Celsius and sun was nowhere to the see. The same waves that had seemed to be inviting and gently hitting the coast, now seemed to be vicious and unforgiving. We had to do it, after all it was a question of our wild spirits. And in that wild spirit, we took of our clothes and plunged into the icy cold salty waters of the Mediterranean. I will only say this; there is a lot we can control with our minds! In the moment I was in the water, I was like a beast, taming the waves, but it's when I stepped outside and started to dress again, that I felt the chill down my spine! Absolutely content with our decision we moved on to walk a trail on the mountain.

The day ended the way it started. Wandering, and going wherever seemed worth going. From the most heavenly blues to the greens I have only seen in movies like the Lord of the Rings, it was a complete feast for the senses. The sun came down on the Mediterranean and the the sky erupted into a myriad of colors. What a simple day it had been, yet how perfect it was!

The next leg of the journey was to be as interesting as the first day and we were ready to flow in the directions are hearts lead us. We were to take a train from Ventimiglia to Genova and then on to Pisa where we would arrive at about 2am. Since we hadn't planned to go to Pisa even though we wanted to, we were happy that we would have 2 hours to roam the city and actually the see the world famous tower. It was cold and the streets were deserted when we came out the station at Pisa. Looking at a map once, we just started walking in the northward direction and after about 45 minutes of walking through dead silence we came up to it.
There is stood, at the most unnatural angles that my first reaction was to look away. It is really that bent and they say it's getting worse with time. The leaning tower of Pisa was a magnificent tower, more so magnificent because of the unusual bend. With it illuminating the night sky, we could now say that we had seen the famous tower!

At 4am freezing, we stood outside waiting for our train to Firenze. Somehow we missed the train as it left from some magical hidden platform far ahead. After another gruelling hour that soaked all the energy from within we caught the hour or so long train to Firenze. The air was still cold when we arrived at Firenze and we were still tired. We ended up sleeping in the waiting lounge for an hour or two. When we finally got up, we were rested, not cold, and ready to tear the city down. Walking out the station that morning, with the sun at about a 60 degree angle up to the east, we soaked in the first sight's of a big bustling Italian city. Firenze at once reminded me off home with cars and busses and other means of transport bustling around honking away, while human beings continued to cross roads in random zig zag manners deliberately avoiding the zebra crossings. I knew this was going to be fun. There were a few things that were on the agenda, and eating some gelato and pizza were up there.
It was still early and people the open markets were still being set up, as the sellers tried to get their first catch of the day by immediately getting into selling mode on seeing us. It was a very charming market in one of the stores, with everything from wallets to ties and shirts being sold. I ended up buying a pure black silk slim tie for 3 euros. I would like to think it was a good bargain!
Though a little messy in parts, one thing there wasn't going to be a dearth of was of art and culture and history. Every building looked more beautiful than the other with classic renaissance architecture.
Michelangelo's famous sculpture 'The statue of David' is housed in the Academia di Belle Arti in Firenze. The museum also holds some other of his works and other renaissance sculptures. I consider myself to be quite an illiterate when it comes to art, but one look at the statue and I knew it was special. There was something about the nakedness of the statue and the beauty of the form that held my gaze in raptures. As the hundreds of people in the gallery looked at the statue in awe, shock and amazement, I understood what the fuss was all about. This huge structure was carved out of a single piece of stone, with each vein on each muscle crafted to perfection. Without even exaggerating the slightest, that was 12 euros that I do not regret spending.
By the time we got out, the sun shone brightly and we had started to feel a little hungry. The Ponte Viccio is a bridge that crosses over the Arno river and is extremely unique as there are hundreds of shops on this bridge. Mostly goldsmith's and artists that replaced the butchers, tanners and blacksmiths back in the day, and brought prosperity to Firenze. On crossing over to the other side we arrived at a quieter more quaint part of town. Old shops and small restaurants run from houses. We found the cutest pizza place. I had to bend to get in the door and the 4 person table barely fit 3 of us. But the Pizza was amazing. Maybe it was because we were starving or maybe because it was Italy, but that pizza tasted incredible.
What we did after this was the defining moment of the trip, of Italy and of our wild spirits. We climbed the fleet of stairs to the top of Firenze. (I am forgetting the name of the plaza). The view from there of the city was absolutely breathtaking. All of Firenze including the famous Duomo with its circular dome was distinctly visible. What made it perfect was the open amphitheater whose steps people sat and lay on while a group of guitarists and violinists performed. We lay down, seeing nothing but all of Florence. All of the magic, all the color. Listening to the strum of the guitar I fell asleep. It was the best 30 minutes of sleep and it was because that moment was perfect. The wind blew at the right speed. The temperature was just right. Nothing could have made it better!

Florence was a town teeming with art and musicians. Everywhere you looked there were stunning sculptures and extraordinary beauty in the simplest of designs. Why be surprised though!? Italy alongwith France was the center of all things art back in younger days! If I ever wished to be transported in time, at that moment in Florence I wished I could be transported to an Italy of the past. To a time when the magic was being created!

The mind has been enriched by such beauty, that it would be a shame if it can't retain it long enough for what I saw I want to imprint in my heart forever!

A wild journey! A great Journey! Ciao Firenze!

Monday, March 8, 2010

Let's talk about a place where they take their Beer damn seriosuly!

After a thoroughly enriching and exciting time in Spain, I was very happy to be in Metz! Though being back to freezing temperatures wasn't the best thing coming from the warm sunny days of Spain, but at least it was home. The local Boulangerie and the Ca Va's and Saluts, it felt good!

A regular week of school, mostly filled with all of us exchanging stories from our travels, passed by rather quickly. Little did I know, that the weekend I was expecting to be a calm and relaxing one, would turn into another great experience in another great city.

As I woke up on Friday afternoon, I had already missed the opportunity to go to Munich with a bunch of people that left early in the morning. After the initial short lived disappointment, I was indeed happy to be staying back. I thought I would catch up!
Soon I found myself running out the door, with 10 euros in my pocket, a banana in another pocket, and a hurriedly packed backpack on my shoulders; I was going to Munich! Now I know you're probably thinking, so what's the big deal, you were just a little rushed that's all. Well here's the deal; For those of you who may or may not know, I had been pick pocketed in Barcelona a mere 6 days ago, losing all my id's, credit cards, money everything. When I barged out that door, I literally left with 10 euros, a passport and a Eurorail pass. To make matters better(worse), I had no clue where the others were staying, so hopes off borrowing money from them were contingent on finding them.

Alright now that the picture has been painted, lets talk about the journey and the city as such. Having been on the TGV's, then the AVE's in Spain, I didn't think it could better. The ICE's or the fast trains of Germany actually did exactly that! They went a step further. Beautiful, fast and comfortable trains zipping through German towns and cities. My train ride to Munich was uneventful as such, but I did manage to read a good amount of the book, 'A child called 'it'!'
After about a couple of train changes standing on cold windy platforms, 6 hours and 2 naps later, I got off at Munchen HBF(Munich Central Station). Now Germany to me drew a blank in my mind. For some reason, I had no idea what to expect. Expect for a few basic things I knew about the country I really felt dumb getting off at the station. The thing I realized at once was that Germans unlike French and the Spanish, neither hesitate in speaking English nor our offended if you approach them not speaking their native tongue. Quite the contrary to the French I would say.

The train station was very impressive, and for some reason had a wide array of food stalls. People might have just come from outside to eat at the station. Looking around, I knew my first task was to find my friends, so at once I decided to start looking around. After having talked to someone on the phone I had found out a cheap hostel close by. After searching through a good 5-6 hostels and calling another 4, my luck hadn't struck. I was stuck. After a little help from an Aussie behind the desk at a youth hostel, he agreed to take my girlfriend's credit card details to book a night there. So that was it I thought, I had 10 Euros to do whatever I could and get back too. I roamed the streets, cold, yet excited at the prospect of discovering my first German city. I had heard they called it the Beer capital of the world; Oh was I in for a pleasant pleasant surprise!

I awoke early the next morning to find it snowing outside. Considering I had just been in the most gorgeous weather just a week ago, I wasn't really looking forward to this. Nonetheless, with an enormous appetite to discover the city and with an even bigger thirst to taste the Beer, I walked into the snow with one of the Free tours. The tour assembled at a place called the Marianplatz, where other tour leaders also joined, and all the different groups were to go from here. As I was standing in this regal square, I am tapped from behind and to it is none other than my friends. After telling them how I had tried to locate them the previous night, and how I was saving every penny to survive the day, we split up into different groups heading for different tours. They were on the Third Rite tour, which talked about the rise and fall off the Socialist Nationalism in Germany. I was but obviously on the free city tour. We decided we would meet at the Square again at 2.

The 3 or so hours with the guide Sonja(An American Masters student in Germany) were one of the most entertaining, informative and useful I have ever spent in an unknown city. From the funniest drinking stories off the Hofbrauhaus and the Beer revolutions of Munich, to the rise of Hitler and the strides Germany has made to educate its youth about its past; dark or not, we talked about it all. We started off at the Glockenspiel. A famous site in Munich, the Glockenspiel is a mechanical display on a massive clock in the Marianplatz, that is actually quite anticlimactic. At 11, 12 and 5 every day, there is a loud noise, and then two mechanical scenes are enacted on the tower. It wasn't the most exciting thing, but it was however entertaining to see the hoards of people gathered to see it go off. The snow had picked up by now, and there was a constant fall. It was getting colder, but our guide was just getting in the groove. We made past alleys and lanes, talking about the history and culture of the city, while almost always ending up with a beer story. It sounded like the Bavarian's were very serious about their beer. A very interesting fact about Munich is that though it does look like an oldish city, it was actually almost completely destroyed in the world wars. What was very interesting was that the people knew this and took pictures of the building beforehand and were able to rebuild them. The churches had very interesting myth's and legends surrounding them. One allegedly was ordered to be built by the devil while the other had a story of a man who dropped a beer glass from atop one of the towers while affixing the cross, and it did not break. The more we walked and saw, the more stories Sonja pulled out. But every now and then, she would talk about serious stuff. She moved the crowd. She made us feel, what Munich and Germany went through, after the first world war, with hyper inflation and the country in heavy debt. She invoked in us an inquisitive feeling towards Hitler and his doings! And she damn sure made us realize how important Beer was to the people of Munich!

Mid way through our tour, we stopped at a local beer garden, named Augustinar. Allegedly the last pope's favorite beer is from here! Heck if the pope loves this beer, God loves the beer! As our guide told us more and more about beer norms like as to how you need to look into the other person's eyes while doing a cheers to how you hold the glass, I saw a my first half liter in Germany being brought to me. Beautiful color, an amazing frothy head and an absolutely magnificent taste! As I gulped my beer, I was content! Oh I love beer!

As we moved on, the beer helping keep warm a little, as the snow fell and fell, completely engulfing everything and everyone. I sight that was close to perfect! I have never seen this much snow in my life. If it was not for my numb toes and fingers, I would have thought it was heaven. We walked past the Hofbrauhaus, the world renowned beer garden of Germany. More a 'touristy' attraction than a true Bavarian beer garden, the sheer amount of tables, people and beer indoors said otherwise! Walking further, we were shown something very interesting. Munich unlike cities like Berlin, believed in paying their respects to the Martyrs and lost lives through subtle honorary mementos like a golden strip on the ground in one of the alleys. The conversations were a mix of important moments in Munich history to interesting knick knacks about everything Beer. One of my favorites was the story that went with the Maples. Now Maples are these tall poles which are found in every german town, village city etc. They showcase the regions traditions and attractions. Since centuries there has been a tradition where people from other regions would come and steal the maple and not return it until they were given a party. One of the best such incident happened in 1995 at the Munich airport. Now the Munich Airport had it's own maple, showcasing to the tourists some of the traditions of the city. One day in 1995, the airport securities arrived to find their beloved Maple gone. Now this was very unsettling as something as huge as a maple was stolen from under the nose of the Airport security! Any guesses as to who took it?... It was the local Munich police, and they actually got a party from the Airport officials. True story! I think it was at this point I realized that I loved these people! They loved their beer more than anything else, and I loved them for that! As we stood next to the town hall building with the snow falling in front of us, I joined in as Sonja used my favorite quote to end the tour. "Life is Like a book and those who don't travel, read only the first few pages."

Still cold but warm from the emotions our guide had evoked in us, I arrived back at the Marianplatz, the decided place to meet my friends. Unfortunately our tour had gotten really late and to my horror, I lost my friends again. At this point I hadn't eaten anything and all my money was over. The next hour or so, I thought of all possibilities. I didn't even have enough money to get a reservation on a train home. As I sat in my hostel, running through all my options, I decided to go to my friend's hostel and wait! 10 min, 20 min, 30 min, they came! They actually came back, and I wasn't going to leave them this time. As we exchanged stories, the first thing I did was borrow some money and eat something. As I was feeling rich now, I decided even to get a haircut, which I got from an Iraqi man. Night rolled by soon, and I was supposed to take a train at 10:30 but I knew I had to have a big glass of beer and have some sort of sausage! I just couldn't go without! We picked up a pork sausage in a bun from a roadside vendor, savoring every bite of it, I wanted a beer to cleanse the taste! What better place to end it than the Hofbrauhaus! Table after table, full of people, drinking copious amounts of beer, served by girls in absolutely adorable Bavarian outfits and obscenely big glasses. We saw our liter glasses of beer come in and I couldn't help but salivate! As I mentioned earlier I have started LOVING beer. There was nothing that came to mind at that moment. A pure liter of unadulterated, purely delicious beer and Me! I drank it all! I felt like a man!

I told myself I was going back as I boarded the night train home!
Burp!!! I dozed off to sleep!

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Barcelona and the home stretch!

A lot has happened in the last 36 hours. I write this as I wait for an overnight train to Paris in a small french town in the south east corner called Perpignian. My room in Metz is still 18 hours away!
As I think back at our journey to Barcelona; The place I had been looking forward to since even before I left. But it was not to be. I have mixed emotions about my day and a half there. This posting is more about people and other smaller incidents that seem irrelevant but are actually memorable.

As the train arrived in Barcelona, I could feel my excitement. After all this is what I had been looking forward to. This is the city I wanted to be in. This would be a great end to this wonderful trip to Spain I thought as we arrived in Barcelona Sants. Taking a metro to Ramblas square, as we got out, the sun along with multitudes of people greeted us at the gorgeous square, which had more tourists than I had seen in all of Spain till then. Britishers, French, Russians, Italians, everyone from everywhere was roaming this gorgeous plaza, that was lined with restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops. Our hostel was off one of the small streets on this plaza. After checking in we left at once to a major part of town. The main attraction here was an unusual building designed by Anthony Gaudi. Though I didn't pay to go up this building, it didn't take too much to appreciate its artistic characteristics. The three of us decided to roam Barcelona. We walked and we walked, moving again in the direction of the setting sun. From major shopping streets, to neighborhoods to business centers we saw it all. Most of the time we were moving towards a huge tower like building that curved at the top. As we got closer and closer, its magnanimity became clearer to us. The building soared into the sky, and we lay on the ground looking at the sky trying to trace its reach. Night had fallen, and we had become very casual and comfortable. We were having a great time in each others company. But a big blow awaited me. As I walked up the stairs off the metro station close to our hostel, I was suddenly interrupted by a Spanish woman from the behind. Before I could understand what was going on, and what she was trying to tell me, I realized someone had picked my wallet, and it was a group of 2 ladies I saw walking away into the huge market that was right in front. It happened so quickly, none of us knew how to react. Should we catch hold of the lady next to us, or follow the one that went into the market. And in that daze she disappeared into the huge market. For a few hours, my spirits were a little dampened, but I came out of it. I decided to make the most of it.

A little dejected me and my friend found ourselves at a Turkish joint. It turned out to be a great time, as the person working there was Pakistani and we engaged in conversation that was a mix of English, Hindhi, Urdu and a little bit of Spanish thrown in. Over the great shawarma and rice, we talked and I decided to give Barcelona and it's people another chance.
Three of us headed to find the beach for the night. After walking for about 45 minutes, we saw it. 3 clubs one after the other on the pristine beach of Barcelona. The one we went into was called Shoko and it was one of the best clubs I have ever been to. A huge dance floor spread across a few levels, with a mix of house and popular music playing. There was an outside area right off the beach, had tables and a great view of the sea. As we danced the night away, I had already forgotten the incident in the evening, and was liking the city all over again. In retrospect, what happened after the club, was a fitting end to the trip. We walked out the club towards the beach, took of our shoes, and sat in the cold sand looking at the Mediterranean for the first time. Sitting there, with the rush of the clubs in the background, a magnificent Westin hotel towering into the sky east of us, and rocks on the west, we stared straight into the sea. .The waves were small; They were calming. We saw a brilliantly lit ship depart from a port on one end and moved across from east to west in front of us. I sat there, soaking it all in. All the people I had met. All the food I had had. All the memories I will take back. It was a fitting end; Cuddled in each others arms for warmth we took a taxi home.
Muchos Gracias we said getting off!

Me and Josiah left Barcelona for Cerbere, a town in the south east just across the border from Spain, at 3 in the afternoon. A little heavy hearted for leaving but glad to be going home at the same time. A few trains later through some of the most picturesque small french towns, we made it to Perpignian, hoping we would be able to get a reservation to somewhere. Being back in France, seeing the signs in French, hearing people speaking in the unmistakable French, it feels like I am back home; in a way it feels nice. When I reached Spain, I thought Spaniards were the sweetest people. Coming back to France, I knew at once I was back, as I was met by a rude lady, not willing to help at the Cerbere station. A little ticked off we arrived in Perpignian, to be met by the sweetest lady behind the counter. She went out of her way to help us, always had a smile, worked past the closing and found us a way to get to Metz. I change what I said at first. You can meet all kinds of people everywhere. Weather it be the women that stole my wallet, to the woman who helped us get our train back, more than anything I have met a lot of people on this trip. And one thing that I have come to realize is, if you try to adjust, if you try to understand their ways, they will help you and they will be nice to you. I said to the old lady at the counter as we left , “Je dit aux mes amis que les francais sont les meilieurs.”(I tell my friends that the French are the best) And I say it now again, with the odd rude or bad person you can find everywhere, you will find more people who will try to help you out; but with a slight stipulation to the tune of the old saying, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do!”

This closes an amazing chapter of an amazing trip. I have wonderful memories of the people, the food and the places of Spain! I would love to go back sometime. As of now, it is onto the train to Paris, and a few trains after home at last!

…..I had thought, that when I get home, that this blog would be ready to post, but little did I know there was a little more drama left....

After finishing the last bit of my account of Barcelona and Spain, it was about 30 minutes to our overnight to Paris. Still amazed at how we had managed to get a reservation, we sat at the station anxiously, now eager to get home. It was extremely windy as we got on the Corail Lunea, the night trains run by SNCF. We had booked sleepers and had the bottom two in a 6 sleeper room. But there was no one else in the room, as the train started moving, and after chatting a little and reading a bit, I fell asleep. I awoke around 1 am to find ourselves parked at Toulouse Mataibau station, and didn't bother much and fell asleep again. A minute before my alarm rang to awaken me to our arrival in Paris, I woke by myself, looked outside, and saw the same signboard saying Toulouse Mataibau. I checked my watch again and woke up with a start and didn't really understand why we had been standing there all night. In my daze I asked a passenger as to when we would get to Paris and was told at 2pm. We went back to sleep, knowing there was nothing else that could be done. We were awoken to another announcement to switch to another TGV as our train had been canceled. Weary and tired passengers lugging their suitcases and bags rushed off the train towards the other train.
After a little confusion as to where we needed to sit, we found ourselves in a bunch of seats, with a Moroccan man, a French girl who had finished interning in Barcelona returning to Paris, a group of 2nd generation Algerians and an old French man. A 5 hour journey ahead, this would turn out be really interesting! As we got to know very soon, the Moroccan man was a very animated fellow; he loved politics and talked about it in about the number of languages on one of our hands. French, Spanish, Arabic and English. He made gestures and spoke very passionately. Every now and then he would pull out something from his duffel bag to get the attention of the group; whether it be natural perfume he had got from Saudi Arabia, or the picture of his young son in his wallet or the multiple magic tricks he showed us. He was almost magical, someone who was born in the wrong age. He provided a lot of entertainment I must say. The other young French lady, Xavier, we ended up becoming quite good buddies with. We talked and we joked and we talked more about traveling and politics and food and all that is great about France.(She was the first French person to admit that French is not a great language. Very surprising) The 5 hours on the train from Toulouse to Paris passed by sort of quickly, with the constant animation of the Moroccan with us and the Algerians and with the new French friend we made. We arrived at Paris Montparnasse amongst chaos. As it turns out, there had been a huge storm the previous night, which had delayed multiple trains and canceled many. The French girl on her way to Paris Gare Du Nord dropped us off at Paris Est from where we hoped to take an alternate train home. After talking to a SNCF official and a train conductor we managed to hop onto a train to Metz, without any seat. As we sat outside the compartment on the small fold-able chairs next to the doors, we looked back at the amazing trip, the amazing people and the amazing places we had been to. As we sped past the green fields, we were glad to be home!
I guess, Home is definitely where the heart lies!!
I'm in my room now, and it feels kinda good!!

Paella de Valencia!

The trains in Spain, though more expensive than the ones in France, have been a level above in terms of luxury. With the AVE being the Spanish version of the TGV, it is a train that moves silently at great speeds, stopping only at major cities. With wooden floors, big windows and a very gracious staff, these trains are a pleasure to travel on. Another thing I had gotten used to was watching the movie they showcased in these trains. On our way to Valencia via Madrid, I watched the movie called Amazing Grace. . A very interesting movie based on a real story, based in the 1700's Britain. It highlights the work of one Mr. William Willburforce who rallied fellow members of the house of commons for years to abolish Slave trade. A very interesting movie that I got completely lost in, forgetting that I was in fact, on a train....

Walking out of the station in Valencia, at once I got the impression it was a busy town. Workers, tourists, businessmen, all shared the sidewalks that led away from the main plaza. We walked to our hostel, and we could see already that this town had a big party scene. Bars everywhere, merchants selling fans and hats everywhere, and multitudes of students brimming about the streets. After talking to the Parisian who worked the desk in French, and her pulling my leg and telling me she didn't think too much of my French, we left for a Tapas bar. Since one of the people in our group was meeting a friend studying in Valencia, she knew the places to take us to. The Tapas bar, essentially specialized in tapas or 'pinchos' from bask country; The region of Navarra and around. I had the most delectable tapas there, including a croquette which is a fried cheese ball with tuna, on a slice of baguette. They also had a local drink which was an alcoholic apple cider they made at the bar.

We went to a few surrounding bars, had a few drinks. I had the sangria, which the make with effortless ease in Spain, and it is as good as the best of cocktails one can have. We stopped by at a bar that had club music on, but soon left for home as we were all tired from the day of traveling.
Waking up the next morning, I saw sunshine seeping in a plenty, through the one big window in our 12 person room. It ought to be a good day, and I brought out my shorts after about 5 months, and my first time in Europe since I've been here. It didn't take us long to find a paella stand in the sun and we were quick to grab seats at a bar style restaurant operated from a sort of stand stall. There was one person working the counter serving up the famous Paella Valencia to the hungry customers that were coming in going. A big plate of Paella and a cold beer with the perfect head was the perfect day to the start. The paella had chicken ribs, something that I had never tasted before. The ribs are very flavorful, but not too fleshy. None the less the Paella was truly lip smacking. Next up we went to the big Mercat, or market. Absolutely amazing. Stalls and stalls of people selling fruits and vegetables and meats and fish and cheese. Flavors and smells intertwined with each other seeped our noses, at once making us crave food. The market was bustling with people, of all shapes and sizes, buying things of all shapes and sizes. The rest of the day we spent wandering from place to place, essentially following the sun. I have now a confirmed theory of how wandering about, if you have the time is the best way to see a city. One gets to see everything from the way markets work, to people work, to what tourists see. And every now and then you discover this gem, that you can proudly say you discovered, and not many would know about!

Our night was to be crazy. I admit, I have become American in the way I party, I like to pregame or drink a 'little' before going out. We played a few games, which I rather not mention here. A few drinks later, a little buzzed we went to the bar/club. In Spain quite a few bars turn their lights off and turn up the music, turning into semi clubs. People stay at bars till about 3 or 4 and then proceed to the clubs. I wouldn't lie but I can't party like the Spaniards as yet, and had to go sleep after the first bar, which was incredibly fun. I didn't get to see Valencia as well as I would have liked, but it was definitely a city with a great vibe.....



…....... Read on for Barcelona and the home Stretch