Monday, April 12, 2010

Hey Luxembourg is only a 45 minute train ride away!









Well well well. Here I am back on the writing board, about to write a post about yet another travel. Honestly I am enjoying writing a lot. I have recently picked up reading and I feel like I missed out on so much not having read all these years. But nonetheless, I feel that I have become more eloquent and expressive in my speech and my writing.

So getting to the part about the travel! I prefer to call it 'discovery' as sometimes we go far and wide, miles away looking for unique treasures, when all we need to do is look in our own background. As I have been mentioning in my last few posts, I am falling more and more in love with Metz. I think the onset of Spring and the brilliantly sprouting lilac's and yellows of the flowers are bringing out the beauty of the city.
After an overnight trip to Paris to see my mom and sister I was back in Metz on Friday in time for class. This weekend was going to be a relaxed one as we only had 2 days this time. Nonetheless we ended up in Cafe Comedie, a new york style bar located off the river. The bar during happy hours serves up some delicious brews. Off course the night wasn't complete without a beer at Le Berthom. In the midst of all the crazed traveling and classes, some of us hadn't really hung out in a while and it was great to catch up with no trains to catch or tests to worry about. An evening full of great conversations and beer ended with an absolutely wonderful sleep.

Ahh now comes the traveling bit. Saturday morning. The sun was shining in all its glory and sunshine was pouring into my room when I opened my eyes at about half past 8. My partner in 'discovery' was going to be Sinan this day. Sinan Sinharoy is one of the most interesting mixes of people I've met. With a dad who is from West Bengal in India and mom from Turkey, that is one delicious household. We had planned to go to Luxembourg for the day and the day seemed perfect for an excursion. Before we left for Luxembourg, we intended to check out the fresh market next to the cathedral we had heard off. The market was splendid. With vendors selling fruits, vegetables, meats and cheese to umbrella's and clothes. Some people sold only eggs and honey. It's great to see trade still take place like this. Walking around the market under the sky, we bought ourselves a lunch of rotisserie chicken and some sort of Turkish bread. As we munched on our food in that bustling market amongst the locals, we felt like locals!

We took the 2 o clock train to Luxembourg. Luxembourg is only a 45 minute train ride north of Metz. The country is divided into three main principalities with Luxembourg City being the main one. It is the only remaining sovereign grand Duchy in the world with a population of a little over half a million and the highest GDP in the world. It was evident as soon as we got off the train that this was an affluent place. The cars, the way people dressed and even the stores suggested that it was a small but rich country. The guy at the information desk told us that everything that needed to be seen, all 30 attractions were in a 2 km circle.
We started walking slightly and soon discovered that the city is actually located on hills and there was a huge valley we could see below while crossing one of the bridges towards the city center. The city was bustling, with Germans, French, Britishers and Luxembourgers who speak something called Luxembourgish.(It's a mix of French and German and has a sing song ring to it) The streets were typically European, narrow and winding between houses. Though similar to Metz and some other French cities, there seemed to be an upmarket feel in everything. The restaurants looked trendier, stores looked boutique, clothes looked chic and cars looked shiny. The sun with all it's glory gave every one reason enough to descend on this small city/country. We turned a corned and found the city center. A big square lined with restaurants on either side, and teeming with people in their Sunday best. We sat their lounging and eating for a while, chatting and completely relaxed.

It was about 4 o clock when we stumbled upon something sublime. Now my favorite part of 'discovery' is the haphazardness and randomness of it all. I love having nothing planned. Just a destination and the thirst to see new things and Sinan was the perfect partner for this. As we looked down at the valley far below, it looked like a complete different world from where we were. Soon enough we were down there, and began our actual discovery. We had almost suddenly gone from a bustling and expensive area to the quaintest and most charming part of town. It was almost like this was a village of Luxembourg. The most beautiful small houses lined the roads, a river flowed at a leisurely pace, and the only thing you could hear or see were the birds. It was gorgeous. We walked through what seemed to be a 'village'. Nature was literally in our face as we walked and walked completely in awe. Every now and then we would see a trendy brasserie in the middle of nowhere, or a Italian restaurant run from a house on the river. The river had a huge fortress built on it at one point. This was from the older times and was beautifully integrated into the joggers path. The path we took would go up on a hill, then come down on a set of stairs on the fort, before opening onto an expanse of green and then quickly narrowing next to the river. All the while we walked around the V shaped valley, we saw very trendy and up market cafe's and boutique stores in the most unusual places. The area was called Grund and it was a chic little part of this 'lower' Luxembourg. And just like that our path lead us onto a step farm, on a lovely opening of land.

I think I cannot justice to the place and I am going to post some pictures to talk to show what we saw.

As the sun was setting, me and Sinan stood on the same bridge we had walked on in afternoon, looking at the entire valley that we had just walked through, and there was a calm. I realized how glad I was to have made the decision of being in France!

Au Revoir Luxembourg we said! Enchantez!

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Metz, Another Home!

Day after tomorrow I would have been in France for 3 months. As cliched as it sounds and as cliched does saying that it sounds cliched sounds, time has flown away! I have realized that I have more European in me than American. The way of life in the US is different. The pace is hectic and there is little time to soak in everything that is going on. Being in Europe, living life the European way has been amazing. People work here but not at the cost of the small joys of life like enjoying an espresso out in the open in the sun, or that walk next to the lake, or just the pleasure of buying fresh baguettes every evening at the local Boulangerie! It is not untrue that the French love their Bread, their wine and their cheese. Honestly, what is there not to like! The French are a very proud people who love their language and their lifestyle a little too much for their own good..... But this has become home now. Another home I must add..

I came to Metz about 3 months ago not knowing what to expect from the city. I still remember when I first arrived in Metz, after having left home more than 24 hours before and having missed a flight and a train, as I came out of the station, snow was falling ever so silently as the big Christmas tree outside the station soared into the sky glittering. I remember an instant smile swiping across my face and all my tiredness evaporating as I got the first glimpse of my new home. Little did I know I would soon fall in love with this place they call Metz(Pronounced Mess).

Metz is the capital of the Lorraine region and is economically and geographically a very important region. Germany and France have been in the past involved in a tug for this region, and it has at times been a German city. As a result, in many parts of the city you can find German influences like the extensive use of wood in houses.
Metz is an industrial and technical hub with many technical schools in the region along with a lot of industry. But what makes Metz the city it is, is the simple people of the town. Even though not one of the bigger or richer cities of France, people look happy and content. It is not unusual to exchange pleasantries with people at stores or in the markets or just on the road in general.

Like everyone else, I too came into France with the notion that the French are rude and arrogant and not at all helpful. What I have found in my 3 months here is absolutely to the contrary. One thing I have to say though is that you have to make an effort to speak their language. They see you trying and they will be extremely helpful. From Paris to Perpignian, I have had some great experiences with French people, especially when I have been in a dire need for help. I think it is the loud and insensitive tourists that get the cold shoulder here and it is those few incidents that have made the French infamous. Or maybe it is just my love for the language and my continued to efforts to speak it that I haven't had many bad experiences.

So what do I do in Metz? Where do I stay? What do I cook? What's my favorite bar?...
My apartment here one of the most charming and reasonably priced one person apartments I've seen. The place where we live is a residence complex which is sort of like a dorm. The 4 halls are color coordinated and I happen to live on the Green one. The wall,s doors and floors in the halls are of the particular color of the hall. In each hallway there are doors that open into a spacious one person apartment with an attached kitchen and bathroom. The space isn't the biggest but the the designs are such that even the space is utilized really efficiently making the room look very spacious and comfortable. I absolutely love my room. I cook a lot often experimenting with spices and meats and sauces which we all happily eat in groups over delicious vines and beers.

Back to the city of Metz. Now even though I have traveled a lot outside of Metz, I have had the chance to spend a good amount of time in Metz as well. One of the first things I had seen, was an old Concentration camp called Fort Queuleu literally 10 minutes walking from where we stay. The first time I had gone was after hours and we had actually snuck in. It was a full moon night and the moonlight shone of the white snow to give it an eerie feel. One could see where the prisoners must have been held back in the day on the massive premise.
Also very close to where we stay is an old cemetery with graves dating back to the 1700's.
The Moselle river runs through the city and actually runs all the way into Germany and meets with the Rhine there. On the river is an old deserted protestant church that looks magnificent when the sun shines down on it. Next to this church is the Place de la Comedie which is actually the oldest running Theater in France. It has a wide Facade with cobble stoned roads leading to it. On the other side of the river is the Cathedral of Saint Etienne. Absolutely unmissable, it rises high and takes over the whole frame when you look at it even from far away. It is one of the bigger cathedrals I have seen in Europe. The interior is grand and high with the stained glass work one of the best I have seen. From the cathedral you can walk into the narrow alleys and cobblestone roads that are lined with boutique stores and bars and shops that comprise this city center. It is fun getting lost in these alleys and then stumbling upon an interesting bar or restaurant. One of my favorite parts of the city center is the Place Saint Jacques. The square is lined by bars and restaurants on all sides, and all of them lay out chairs and tables once the winter cold is gone. People throng the square when the sun's out and it's a pleasure to have a beer or a gelato as you relax at this square.
Something that one comes across a lot in Western Europe at least is Turkish and Lebanese Kebab joints. It's almost like comfort food. Soft pita like bread, filled with Shawarma meat, topped with tomatoes, lettuce, onions and the works and topped with a special white sauce, served with Frites or Fries. The meal is an absolute to die for and every place makes it a little different.
Talking about food, I have to speak about beverages as well. As far as watering holes are concerned, there are plenty, and to be honest I haven't been to many but that's because I found the best one right at the start. Its called Les Berthom or the tree bar and is located close to Place Saint Jacques. The place as the name suggests has trees growing within or at least that's what it seems like. The colors inside our different browns and from the tables to stools to the bar top is 'tree' like colors. My reason for visiting it often is their Happy hours during which you get 2 for the price of 1 on their selection of Belgian Tap Beers. They have a good selection of Beers, but more than anything it is absolutely Fresh and lives you literally smacking your lips.
If that didn't get you excited there are many other bars in town including a few Irish pubs. The Cafe Comedie that overlooks the river is another very interesting bar serving unique shots to go with the beers. Their are also clubs in town but unfortunately I haven't been able to find time to go. Tiffany and Guess club seem to be two of the more trendy clubs.

The other day when my mom and my sister were in town, and then did I see my city from their eyes, that I realized how charming a place this is. From Latin,Roman and German influences, this is a very eclectic town which prides itself on its art and theater while not failing to identify itself as truly French city!

Metz has become my home. This might sound unusual but Metz has become more a home than even Atlanta even though I have stayed there for longer. Maybe it's the people, maybe it's the atmosphere or maybe it's just the timing. My semester here is turning out to be great for a number of reasons other than the traveling as well. Though I still plan to travel to other great European cities, I can safely say that the memories of Metz will always remain imprinted in my heart!

Je manquerai cette ville et les personnes ici beaucoup!!


(p.s: Pictures to all my blogs will come soon. Sorry it looks really drab and boring right now)

Saturday, April 3, 2010

C'est Paris!! Enough Said!

I know it's been a while since I last posted so here is something for the lovers and romantics at heart! There should also be a post about Italy coming up soon!
Well for the few who do read this, and I think there are a few of you who occasionally, when all other modes of entertainment exhaust, glance through this. Thank you for reading!

So if the title of this blog hadn't given it away, I am spending this weekend in Paris. Yes Paris! And that too with my mom and sister. Now I had also been to Paris in my initial few weeks here in France but never blogged about that, so I might add some stuff from that trip as well. Alright here goes...

Paris!! I had been here two times before and transited through almost every other week. When my mom told me that her plan had finalized about a month back, apart from the excitement to meet them, I was really excited at the prospect of being a tourist in the city of dreams. Now you see, I am a student on a shoestring budget,typically cutting corners everywhere. My family coming meant that I would get to stay in a hotel and do things that I might not otherwise due to a lack of funds!

I am pretty accustomed to taking the train from Metz to Paris EST now. After precisely 1 hour and 23 minutes, the train rolled into Paris on a slightly chilly and wet Friday afternoon. I am pretty used to the routine by now. Go from Paris EST to Paris Nord. Take the RER B straight to Terminal 1 of the Airport. I did this munching away at fries I bought at McDonalds and deeply engrossed in the book I am reading. I got there just in time to pick mom and sis up and after the initial hug's and hello's I was ready to 'show off' my French. And mind you it's not too bad. After a long cab ride, costing 'don't even ask', we arrived at our hotel, Les Jardins Du Marais, in the 11th Quartier de Paris. Paris to clarify is divided into 20 quarters or quartiers. The hotel a very charming 4 star property, had a contemporary look from the outside while still exuding that warmth an old property does. Our suite, a good sized two rooms with attached kitchenettes and bathrooms, was more than enough for the 3 of us.

Soon after settling in, we left, with both mom and sister marveling at each and every building and cafe. It's then that I realized the sheer amount of street side cafe's and brasseries Paris has. It was slightly gloomy, as rain fell every now and then, but each others presence and the ambiance of a typical Parisian brasserie made it quite the contrary. I enjoyed a big British pint(500ml,0.5L) of Leffe(A Belgian Beer) and we talked about Paris and France and all things magical. For dinner we found a little Italian Pizzeria run by a very friendly old Italian man. As I continued to impress with my French, I discovered the man's family were from Ventigmiglia, a small Italian town on the Franco Italian border. And as it turned out I had been there a few weeks ago(Mention of it in the next post. It'll be a fun read.Promise) and that made him real chatty with us. The food was delicious. We shared a pizza and a prawn pasta in a tomato sauce. We had a big chunk of Gorgonzola to go with the bread and some Proseco(Poor Italian country cousin of Champagne). After a very scrumptious dinner and very interesting conversations it was time to retire. It had been a while since I had been in a nice hotel, and since we were staying in one, I was excited. As I lay in my Queen size bed, with extra large pillows, a cosy quilt and a full stomach, it didn't take long for me to fall into my sleep... Some other part of Paris was to be discovered tomorrow...

We were ready to leave at 9:30 the next morning.. Still gloomy outside but it seemed like the sun was trying to peek out from behind the grayish clouds. Nevertheless are plans included starting at the Arc De Triomphe and walking to the Eiffel Tower(La Tour Eiffel), accompanied with grabbing a baguette or something somewhere on the way. The last time I was in Paris, in the beginning of February, I was with my Friend who is studying at Sciences Po; A very Prestigious University in France. We had roamed all day passing through alleys and cobble stone roads. We roamed the Latin Quarters, which are on the other side of the Seine from the Louvre. A chic area frequented by students because of the presence of the Universities in the region. We had sat at a cafe and I remember drinking the best Chocolat Chaud; Warm and frothy, with the perfect amount of sweet chocolate, while still tasting like a mature beverage! We had roamed the streets and she had told me about the hangouts of the young Parisians. Cafe Oz in Chatelet was one such place. We had lunched in the 'Jardin du Luxembourg' across from the Iconic Louvre Pyramid while watching daring pigeons scavenge-ring around people to grab any crumbs of bread or even more. It was a good day. I didn't go see the Eiffel tower, or Notre Dame, or Champs Elysees as I had done all that in my first visit with a dear friend Niren from high school in 2008. Interesting fact: That trip was actually the one where I met my love later in Nottingham.
We got off the taxi at the Arc De Triomph on the famous Champs Elysees. The magnificent arc that is a memorial for soldiers from the Napoleonic wars. The place as always was thronged by tourists of all colors. Paris interestingly is one of the most visited places alongside New York and London. (I feel privileged saying that I have already been to all those places) Walking down the Champs Elysees, window shopping at one of the hundreds of designer brands, we were actually walking towards the Tour Eiffel. Walking without a planned route always results in the discovery of hidden treasures. As we turned off the Champs Elysees, we hit a wide tree lined street, with top end labels on both sides. Yet the street was quiet and had an understated elegance about it.
The Tour Eiffel was unmissable now, and despite having seen it a number of times from a number of different angles, from a number of locations and at a number of different times of the day, it still looked magical. It looked different. The clouds made an excellent backdrop and it peeked from behind the buildings and trees we were walking in front off. The Eiffel Tower, it really is that magical! Unfortunately our plans to climb it were put on halt till another time as there was an obscene amount of people queuing up to climb the erstwhile tallest building of the world. ( Hard to believe now with something like the Emirates tower in Dubai isn't it.)
Having stopped at a Parisian cafe for a quick bite we returned to the hotel to re-energize and leave again later.
From my various travels and experiences in some of the major cities in the world, there is a few similarities I find. Big cities mean big traffic, and big traffic means angry drivers. Whether New Delhi or New York, people seem angry on the streets. Though not quite as bad in Paris, there is still an uneasiness on the roads not typical of this continent. Another similarity is the presence of umpteen amounts of vendors of from a hundred different countries. It is always interesting to observe their sales pitch as all of them are essentially selling the same things. I won't lie, I have been prey to these enterprising and persistent salesmen in some part of the world or the other.
....

Marais is an interesting part of town, lined with boutique and home grown designer stores. It promises some great shopping. It also has a number of popular bars that are literally overflowing with people onto the streets in the early evening. We roamed the roads as the shops were closing, as the sun slowly set, as lights started illuminating on every nook, cranny and corner. What makes Paris magical is the multitude of lights. It's one of those things that is hard to describe. From the Tabac's (Small convenience stores) to fancy restaurants, 'lights will guide you through.' (Sorry I couldn't resist).

Sparkling lights all around, the ever so beautiful French in the air, the smell of the myriad perfumes emanating from the immaculately dressed people mixing beautifully with the smell of Fresh bread and coffee, and the Eiffel tower as a backdrop, as you eat your croissant or sip that fresh pint of beer. Tell me you don't believe in Falling in Love! It's the sum of the parts that makes Paris what it is!

A fitting end to the night was to be in Montmarte. Montmarte or more famously the Artist's square is located on top of a mountain, which has the most Spectacular view of the city. It is one of the best Panoramas followed very closely by Firenze (Florence. To be talked about in the next blog). Montmarte used to be a very poor region and was a home to many famous artists. Rich people came to this part of town to get their portraits made and soak in the splendor of the city from top. Today, it's touristy and one of the richest parts of town. Though the view is as magnificent as ever, offering a splendid view of the vista that is Paris, with the Eiffel Tower glittering away in the East in all its glory, the square is pretty touristy. Lots of tourist shops flock the streets leading upto Montmarte and even the restaurants in the square are a little pricey. The atmosphere though is unlike you would find anywhere else. Artists of all kinds flock the area from morning till evening trying to sell their art to anyone that might be interested. From painters who paint scenes of Paris, to portrait sketchers to even artists that go up to people at their table as they sip coffee and start painting them. I was a victim and ended up paying 20 euros for a caricature of myself! Being there one could imagine the days of Picasso and others sitting on that hill painting the myriad colors of Paris.

I am sitting in our hotel room. I think I have fallen in Love with this city. After having been here many a time, it was only until I roamed the streets of this city with open eyes of wonderment and glee that I fell in love with it. Tomorrow we plan to roam the gardens of the Louvre and hopefully climb the Eiffel tower.... I cannot wait for tomorrow. I cannot wait to fall more in love with cette ville!

Au Boulangeries, A La Tour Eiffel et a L'Amour!!!