A lot has happened in the last 36 hours. I write this as I wait for an overnight train to Paris in a small french town in the south east corner called Perpignian. My room in Metz is still 18 hours away!
As I think back at our journey to Barcelona; The place I had been looking forward to since even before I left. But it was not to be. I have mixed emotions about my day and a half there. This posting is more about people and other smaller incidents that seem irrelevant but are actually memorable.
As the train arrived in Barcelona, I could feel my excitement. After all this is what I had been looking forward to. This is the city I wanted to be in. This would be a great end to this wonderful trip to Spain I thought as we arrived in Barcelona Sants. Taking a metro to Ramblas square, as we got out, the sun along with multitudes of people greeted us at the gorgeous square, which had more tourists than I had seen in all of Spain till then. Britishers, French, Russians, Italians, everyone from everywhere was roaming this gorgeous plaza, that was lined with restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops. Our hostel was off one of the small streets on this plaza. After checking in we left at once to a major part of town. The main attraction here was an unusual building designed by Anthony Gaudi. Though I didn't pay to go up this building, it didn't take too much to appreciate its artistic characteristics. The three of us decided to roam Barcelona. We walked and we walked, moving again in the direction of the setting sun. From major shopping streets, to neighborhoods to business centers we saw it all. Most of the time we were moving towards a huge tower like building that curved at the top. As we got closer and closer, its magnanimity became clearer to us. The building soared into the sky, and we lay on the ground looking at the sky trying to trace its reach. Night had fallen, and we had become very casual and comfortable. We were having a great time in each others company. But a big blow awaited me. As I walked up the stairs off the metro station close to our hostel, I was suddenly interrupted by a Spanish woman from the behind. Before I could understand what was going on, and what she was trying to tell me, I realized someone had picked my wallet, and it was a group of 2 ladies I saw walking away into the huge market that was right in front. It happened so quickly, none of us knew how to react. Should we catch hold of the lady next to us, or follow the one that went into the market. And in that daze she disappeared into the huge market. For a few hours, my spirits were a little dampened, but I came out of it. I decided to make the most of it.
A little dejected me and my friend found ourselves at a Turkish joint. It turned out to be a great time, as the person working there was Pakistani and we engaged in conversation that was a mix of English, Hindhi, Urdu and a little bit of Spanish thrown in. Over the great shawarma and rice, we talked and I decided to give Barcelona and it's people another chance.
Three of us headed to find the beach for the night. After walking for about 45 minutes, we saw it. 3 clubs one after the other on the pristine beach of Barcelona. The one we went into was called Shoko and it was one of the best clubs I have ever been to. A huge dance floor spread across a few levels, with a mix of house and popular music playing. There was an outside area right off the beach, had tables and a great view of the sea. As we danced the night away, I had already forgotten the incident in the evening, and was liking the city all over again. In retrospect, what happened after the club, was a fitting end to the trip. We walked out the club towards the beach, took of our shoes, and sat in the cold sand looking at the Mediterranean for the first time. Sitting there, with the rush of the clubs in the background, a magnificent Westin hotel towering into the sky east of us, and rocks on the west, we stared straight into the sea. .The waves were small; They were calming. We saw a brilliantly lit ship depart from a port on one end and moved across from east to west in front of us. I sat there, soaking it all in. All the people I had met. All the food I had had. All the memories I will take back. It was a fitting end; Cuddled in each others arms for warmth we took a taxi home.
Muchos Gracias we said getting off!
Me and Josiah left Barcelona for Cerbere, a town in the south east just across the border from Spain, at 3 in the afternoon. A little heavy hearted for leaving but glad to be going home at the same time. A few trains later through some of the most picturesque small french towns, we made it to Perpignian, hoping we would be able to get a reservation to somewhere. Being back in France, seeing the signs in French, hearing people speaking in the unmistakable French, it feels like I am back home; in a way it feels nice. When I reached Spain, I thought Spaniards were the sweetest people. Coming back to France, I knew at once I was back, as I was met by a rude lady, not willing to help at the Cerbere station. A little ticked off we arrived in Perpignian, to be met by the sweetest lady behind the counter. She went out of her way to help us, always had a smile, worked past the closing and found us a way to get to Metz. I change what I said at first. You can meet all kinds of people everywhere. Weather it be the women that stole my wallet, to the woman who helped us get our train back, more than anything I have met a lot of people on this trip. And one thing that I have come to realize is, if you try to adjust, if you try to understand their ways, they will help you and they will be nice to you. I said to the old lady at the counter as we left , “Je dit aux mes amis que les francais sont les meilieurs.”(I tell my friends that the French are the best) And I say it now again, with the odd rude or bad person you can find everywhere, you will find more people who will try to help you out; but with a slight stipulation to the tune of the old saying, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do!”
This closes an amazing chapter of an amazing trip. I have wonderful memories of the people, the food and the places of Spain! I would love to go back sometime. As of now, it is onto the train to Paris, and a few trains after home at last!
…..I had thought, that when I get home, that this blog would be ready to post, but little did I know there was a little more drama left....
After finishing the last bit of my account of Barcelona and Spain, it was about 30 minutes to our overnight to Paris. Still amazed at how we had managed to get a reservation, we sat at the station anxiously, now eager to get home. It was extremely windy as we got on the Corail Lunea, the night trains run by SNCF. We had booked sleepers and had the bottom two in a 6 sleeper room. But there was no one else in the room, as the train started moving, and after chatting a little and reading a bit, I fell asleep. I awoke around 1 am to find ourselves parked at Toulouse Mataibau station, and didn't bother much and fell asleep again. A minute before my alarm rang to awaken me to our arrival in Paris, I woke by myself, looked outside, and saw the same signboard saying Toulouse Mataibau. I checked my watch again and woke up with a start and didn't really understand why we had been standing there all night. In my daze I asked a passenger as to when we would get to Paris and was told at 2pm. We went back to sleep, knowing there was nothing else that could be done. We were awoken to another announcement to switch to another TGV as our train had been canceled. Weary and tired passengers lugging their suitcases and bags rushed off the train towards the other train.
After a little confusion as to where we needed to sit, we found ourselves in a bunch of seats, with a Moroccan man, a French girl who had finished interning in Barcelona returning to Paris, a group of 2nd generation Algerians and an old French man. A 5 hour journey ahead, this would turn out be really interesting! As we got to know very soon, the Moroccan man was a very animated fellow; he loved politics and talked about it in about the number of languages on one of our hands. French, Spanish, Arabic and English. He made gestures and spoke very passionately. Every now and then he would pull out something from his duffel bag to get the attention of the group; whether it be natural perfume he had got from Saudi Arabia, or the picture of his young son in his wallet or the multiple magic tricks he showed us. He was almost magical, someone who was born in the wrong age. He provided a lot of entertainment I must say. The other young French lady, Xavier, we ended up becoming quite good buddies with. We talked and we joked and we talked more about traveling and politics and food and all that is great about France.(She was the first French person to admit that French is not a great language. Very surprising) The 5 hours on the train from Toulouse to Paris passed by sort of quickly, with the constant animation of the Moroccan with us and the Algerians and with the new French friend we made. We arrived at Paris Montparnasse amongst chaos. As it turns out, there had been a huge storm the previous night, which had delayed multiple trains and canceled many. The French girl on her way to Paris Gare Du Nord dropped us off at Paris Est from where we hoped to take an alternate train home. After talking to a SNCF official and a train conductor we managed to hop onto a train to Metz, without any seat. As we sat outside the compartment on the small fold-able chairs next to the doors, we looked back at the amazing trip, the amazing people and the amazing places we had been to. As we sped past the green fields, we were glad to be home!
I guess, Home is definitely where the heart lies!!
I'm in my room now, and it feels kinda good!!
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Paella de Valencia!
The trains in Spain, though more expensive than the ones in France, have been a level above in terms of luxury. With the AVE being the Spanish version of the TGV, it is a train that moves silently at great speeds, stopping only at major cities. With wooden floors, big windows and a very gracious staff, these trains are a pleasure to travel on. Another thing I had gotten used to was watching the movie they showcased in these trains. On our way to Valencia via Madrid, I watched the movie called Amazing Grace. . A very interesting movie based on a real story, based in the 1700's Britain. It highlights the work of one Mr. William Willburforce who rallied fellow members of the house of commons for years to abolish Slave trade. A very interesting movie that I got completely lost in, forgetting that I was in fact, on a train....
Walking out of the station in Valencia, at once I got the impression it was a busy town. Workers, tourists, businessmen, all shared the sidewalks that led away from the main plaza. We walked to our hostel, and we could see already that this town had a big party scene. Bars everywhere, merchants selling fans and hats everywhere, and multitudes of students brimming about the streets. After talking to the Parisian who worked the desk in French, and her pulling my leg and telling me she didn't think too much of my French, we left for a Tapas bar. Since one of the people in our group was meeting a friend studying in Valencia, she knew the places to take us to. The Tapas bar, essentially specialized in tapas or 'pinchos' from bask country; The region of Navarra and around. I had the most delectable tapas there, including a croquette which is a fried cheese ball with tuna, on a slice of baguette. They also had a local drink which was an alcoholic apple cider they made at the bar.
We went to a few surrounding bars, had a few drinks. I had the sangria, which the make with effortless ease in Spain, and it is as good as the best of cocktails one can have. We stopped by at a bar that had club music on, but soon left for home as we were all tired from the day of traveling.
Waking up the next morning, I saw sunshine seeping in a plenty, through the one big window in our 12 person room. It ought to be a good day, and I brought out my shorts after about 5 months, and my first time in Europe since I've been here. It didn't take us long to find a paella stand in the sun and we were quick to grab seats at a bar style restaurant operated from a sort of stand stall. There was one person working the counter serving up the famous Paella Valencia to the hungry customers that were coming in going. A big plate of Paella and a cold beer with the perfect head was the perfect day to the start. The paella had chicken ribs, something that I had never tasted before. The ribs are very flavorful, but not too fleshy. None the less the Paella was truly lip smacking. Next up we went to the big Mercat, or market. Absolutely amazing. Stalls and stalls of people selling fruits and vegetables and meats and fish and cheese. Flavors and smells intertwined with each other seeped our noses, at once making us crave food. The market was bustling with people, of all shapes and sizes, buying things of all shapes and sizes. The rest of the day we spent wandering from place to place, essentially following the sun. I have now a confirmed theory of how wandering about, if you have the time is the best way to see a city. One gets to see everything from the way markets work, to people work, to what tourists see. And every now and then you discover this gem, that you can proudly say you discovered, and not many would know about!
Our night was to be crazy. I admit, I have become American in the way I party, I like to pregame or drink a 'little' before going out. We played a few games, which I rather not mention here. A few drinks later, a little buzzed we went to the bar/club. In Spain quite a few bars turn their lights off and turn up the music, turning into semi clubs. People stay at bars till about 3 or 4 and then proceed to the clubs. I wouldn't lie but I can't party like the Spaniards as yet, and had to go sleep after the first bar, which was incredibly fun. I didn't get to see Valencia as well as I would have liked, but it was definitely a city with a great vibe.....
…....... Read on for Barcelona and the home Stretch
Walking out of the station in Valencia, at once I got the impression it was a busy town. Workers, tourists, businessmen, all shared the sidewalks that led away from the main plaza. We walked to our hostel, and we could see already that this town had a big party scene. Bars everywhere, merchants selling fans and hats everywhere, and multitudes of students brimming about the streets. After talking to the Parisian who worked the desk in French, and her pulling my leg and telling me she didn't think too much of my French, we left for a Tapas bar. Since one of the people in our group was meeting a friend studying in Valencia, she knew the places to take us to. The Tapas bar, essentially specialized in tapas or 'pinchos' from bask country; The region of Navarra and around. I had the most delectable tapas there, including a croquette which is a fried cheese ball with tuna, on a slice of baguette. They also had a local drink which was an alcoholic apple cider they made at the bar.
We went to a few surrounding bars, had a few drinks. I had the sangria, which the make with effortless ease in Spain, and it is as good as the best of cocktails one can have. We stopped by at a bar that had club music on, but soon left for home as we were all tired from the day of traveling.
Waking up the next morning, I saw sunshine seeping in a plenty, through the one big window in our 12 person room. It ought to be a good day, and I brought out my shorts after about 5 months, and my first time in Europe since I've been here. It didn't take us long to find a paella stand in the sun and we were quick to grab seats at a bar style restaurant operated from a sort of stand stall. There was one person working the counter serving up the famous Paella Valencia to the hungry customers that were coming in going. A big plate of Paella and a cold beer with the perfect head was the perfect day to the start. The paella had chicken ribs, something that I had never tasted before. The ribs are very flavorful, but not too fleshy. None the less the Paella was truly lip smacking. Next up we went to the big Mercat, or market. Absolutely amazing. Stalls and stalls of people selling fruits and vegetables and meats and fish and cheese. Flavors and smells intertwined with each other seeped our noses, at once making us crave food. The market was bustling with people, of all shapes and sizes, buying things of all shapes and sizes. The rest of the day we spent wandering from place to place, essentially following the sun. I have now a confirmed theory of how wandering about, if you have the time is the best way to see a city. One gets to see everything from the way markets work, to people work, to what tourists see. And every now and then you discover this gem, that you can proudly say you discovered, and not many would know about!
Our night was to be crazy. I admit, I have become American in the way I party, I like to pregame or drink a 'little' before going out. We played a few games, which I rather not mention here. A few drinks later, a little buzzed we went to the bar/club. In Spain quite a few bars turn their lights off and turn up the music, turning into semi clubs. People stay at bars till about 3 or 4 and then proceed to the clubs. I wouldn't lie but I can't party like the Spaniards as yet, and had to go sleep after the first bar, which was incredibly fun. I didn't get to see Valencia as well as I would have liked, but it was definitely a city with a great vibe.....
…....... Read on for Barcelona and the home Stretch
Oh Seville! Thou art too beautiful!
I've been in Spain for about 5 days now, but the sheer amount of experiences make me feel like I've been here forever. As I move, through Spain, my first opinion about the country is further solidified; Spain's got some serious Flava!
I sit in a train headed to Valencia, with Marley and me playing on the train television. Trains in Spain have been amazing, really clean and comfortable, with TV screens playing a movie. They even give you free headphones on every journey. But as I head to my next destination I can't help but think off the 2 great days I have spent in Seville.
When I got off the train at Seville's Santa Justa station, and walked out as the sun was setting, I was at once hit by a wonderfully cool breeze. For the first time since I've been in Europe I had great weather; An amazing 18 degrees Celsius. Sitting on the bus, headed towards my hostel, I noticed a hectic pace in the evening rush of traffic. People walking around everywhere and cars honking. The way a city should be like. Noisy and full of color. Now walking on the street towards my hostel, in the Saint Sebastian Plaza, with trams going by in both directions, people on cycles frantically moving around, police cars on rounds, a gorgeous palace converted to a hotel on my left, tall palm trees swaying to the cool evening breeze, and plenty a person walking about, I was already in love with the place. Having grown up in a crowded city, where thousands of people flock together in markets, roads and parks, busy cities make me feel at home at once.
As I turned a corner, the sheer size of the Cathedral was overwhelming on first site. As far as I could see in the distance, I saw great towers of the magnificent cathedral, which might as well have been some king's palace. My hostel was right around the corner, and I went ahead and kept my stuff, freshened up and headed out to see the city a little, after consulting the receptionist, Elizabeth, a very friendly Kenyan.
By the time I left, mass was about to begin in the cathedral, and I casually walked in, and was literally awe struck. My vocabulary isn't good enough to describe properly what I saw. Ceilings reaching the sky, ornamental work all over and just the sheer size of it all, gave it a surreal feeling. I left within a few minutes thinking I'd come back in the day, but unfortunately found the main doors closed every time I tried after. My first evening in Seville was on my own. I had other friends who I had to meet up but I didn't know where they were living. So I was out there, with a city to be explored and a place to learn even more from! As I sat at a small cafe bar, eating my Chicken on a bed of fries with a cold cervecsa(beer) to go with it, I saw the evening traffic slowly pass by outside the window, I felt lucky at how I was able to experience such great cities!
The rest of the night I walked around and I walked around a lot. Left Right, Right Left, here and there, I would walk to whatever looked interesting and I stumbled upon some beautiful architecture, picturesque alleys and at times even the not so good parts of town. But what I love about wandering is that you get to watch; you get to watch everything; people, things,nature. It was a cool evening with the rain spitting a little, but as I came back home around midnight, I felt very content.
I was about to call it a night sitting in the lobby checking my email, conversing with the Spanish guy who was working the night shift in French mind you, 3 other kids wandered down from their rooms. As we sat in that small lobby, drinking, I got to know an Austrian, a German, an a Slovenian all studying in Lisbon as part of the Erasmus program(European Exchange) who had come to Seville for a break. As we sat there for 4 hours we talked about countries and cities and languages and everything that goes with it! A wonderful day in a wonderful place. I was falling more and more and love with Spain!
Another day, another experience to be had, the same city awaited, as the sun shone brightly on it. I was expecting to be joined by a group later in the day as they were arriving from Grenada. I left around noon to explore a little more on my own. Walking through Santa Cruz, in alleys so narrow at times that two people had trouble walking alongside, I waded past tapas bars and boutique stores that seemed to spring out of nowhere, intertwined with the lives of people who lived in beautiful homes in these alleys. Life existed in plenty here, and with the sun seeping though the narrow openings between buildings, everything from the plants to the people was alive. Looking for a place to eat, I found a place facing the wonderful historic hotel I mentioned earlier, out in the open, with the tram passing by a few meters away. It was called Boston Burger. I ordered myself a burger with fries and a coke, and sat there in the gorgeous sunshine relishing my meal. Even after I was done, I just sat there. As people walked by, or sometimes hurried by, I was still, absolutely calm and peaceful; Relaxed.
Around 4 my friends from tech had arrived and after exchanging a few stories from our previous travels, they were excited to explore the city, and I, having been in Seville for a day, became the automatic guide. We left again, and we walked again, past the same buildings, and through the same streets, but if was different. I sort of knew these streets now and it felt good. After walking through a few familiar places, we passed by a beautiful garden in the middle of the city to what is called the Plaza de Espana. A sort of regal administration building we knew before going in. From the outside there seemed like there was a lot of renovation going on, but one peek in the main door and our jaws dropped. A huge semi circular building, a mix of Islamic and Catholic architecture, with the most exquisite porcelain work all over. (I will insert pictures soon) We walked around for a bit, closely examining the different tile work which showcased all the different regions of Spain. This city wasn't seizing to impress. On our walk back home we saw boards advertising the Champions league prequarterfinal between Barcelona and Stuttgart and we knew we had to watch it at a bar. One side of the cathedral was a Irish pub called Flaherty's which had a huge screen set up, and the place was full of people. There wasn't enough space, so we requested a middle eastern looking gentleman if we could share his table, and he duly agreed. It turned out to be a great table. 2 of his friends came by and they were extremely friendly. They were all Moroccans who had been in Spain 3 years, passionate about football, and living life respecting others. Once I learned that they knew French (one of the 5 they knew) I was elated and brought out my French. It's interesting that in Spain I have been approaching people in French and not in English. And the pleasure that follows when someone does speak French is, a feeling you might have when you discover that a stranger you met knows someone who is dear to you as well!
After a 1-1 draw we bid to our new friends and proceeded to find a place to party in a big group of 8 which included the 5 of us from Tech and the three kids from Portugal I met the previous night. Though the town seemed absolutely dead as we walked everywhere, we had a very great time just getting to know each other. We came back around 4 and in my mind I knew this was going to be my favorite city in Spain! It has a feel to it, did Seville. Something that put me to ease, something that made me relax.
The next morning, another destination awaited, though excited at the prospect of discovering other cities, my heart was heavy as I had fallen in love with Seville! The train rolled out of Seville Santa Justa...Valencia and Barcelona awaited!
I sit in a train headed to Valencia, with Marley and me playing on the train television. Trains in Spain have been amazing, really clean and comfortable, with TV screens playing a movie. They even give you free headphones on every journey. But as I head to my next destination I can't help but think off the 2 great days I have spent in Seville.
When I got off the train at Seville's Santa Justa station, and walked out as the sun was setting, I was at once hit by a wonderfully cool breeze. For the first time since I've been in Europe I had great weather; An amazing 18 degrees Celsius. Sitting on the bus, headed towards my hostel, I noticed a hectic pace in the evening rush of traffic. People walking around everywhere and cars honking. The way a city should be like. Noisy and full of color. Now walking on the street towards my hostel, in the Saint Sebastian Plaza, with trams going by in both directions, people on cycles frantically moving around, police cars on rounds, a gorgeous palace converted to a hotel on my left, tall palm trees swaying to the cool evening breeze, and plenty a person walking about, I was already in love with the place. Having grown up in a crowded city, where thousands of people flock together in markets, roads and parks, busy cities make me feel at home at once.
As I turned a corner, the sheer size of the Cathedral was overwhelming on first site. As far as I could see in the distance, I saw great towers of the magnificent cathedral, which might as well have been some king's palace. My hostel was right around the corner, and I went ahead and kept my stuff, freshened up and headed out to see the city a little, after consulting the receptionist, Elizabeth, a very friendly Kenyan.
By the time I left, mass was about to begin in the cathedral, and I casually walked in, and was literally awe struck. My vocabulary isn't good enough to describe properly what I saw. Ceilings reaching the sky, ornamental work all over and just the sheer size of it all, gave it a surreal feeling. I left within a few minutes thinking I'd come back in the day, but unfortunately found the main doors closed every time I tried after. My first evening in Seville was on my own. I had other friends who I had to meet up but I didn't know where they were living. So I was out there, with a city to be explored and a place to learn even more from! As I sat at a small cafe bar, eating my Chicken on a bed of fries with a cold cervecsa(beer) to go with it, I saw the evening traffic slowly pass by outside the window, I felt lucky at how I was able to experience such great cities!
The rest of the night I walked around and I walked around a lot. Left Right, Right Left, here and there, I would walk to whatever looked interesting and I stumbled upon some beautiful architecture, picturesque alleys and at times even the not so good parts of town. But what I love about wandering is that you get to watch; you get to watch everything; people, things,nature. It was a cool evening with the rain spitting a little, but as I came back home around midnight, I felt very content.
I was about to call it a night sitting in the lobby checking my email, conversing with the Spanish guy who was working the night shift in French mind you, 3 other kids wandered down from their rooms. As we sat in that small lobby, drinking, I got to know an Austrian, a German, an a Slovenian all studying in Lisbon as part of the Erasmus program(European Exchange) who had come to Seville for a break. As we sat there for 4 hours we talked about countries and cities and languages and everything that goes with it! A wonderful day in a wonderful place. I was falling more and more and love with Spain!
Another day, another experience to be had, the same city awaited, as the sun shone brightly on it. I was expecting to be joined by a group later in the day as they were arriving from Grenada. I left around noon to explore a little more on my own. Walking through Santa Cruz, in alleys so narrow at times that two people had trouble walking alongside, I waded past tapas bars and boutique stores that seemed to spring out of nowhere, intertwined with the lives of people who lived in beautiful homes in these alleys. Life existed in plenty here, and with the sun seeping though the narrow openings between buildings, everything from the plants to the people was alive. Looking for a place to eat, I found a place facing the wonderful historic hotel I mentioned earlier, out in the open, with the tram passing by a few meters away. It was called Boston Burger. I ordered myself a burger with fries and a coke, and sat there in the gorgeous sunshine relishing my meal. Even after I was done, I just sat there. As people walked by, or sometimes hurried by, I was still, absolutely calm and peaceful; Relaxed.
Around 4 my friends from tech had arrived and after exchanging a few stories from our previous travels, they were excited to explore the city, and I, having been in Seville for a day, became the automatic guide. We left again, and we walked again, past the same buildings, and through the same streets, but if was different. I sort of knew these streets now and it felt good. After walking through a few familiar places, we passed by a beautiful garden in the middle of the city to what is called the Plaza de Espana. A sort of regal administration building we knew before going in. From the outside there seemed like there was a lot of renovation going on, but one peek in the main door and our jaws dropped. A huge semi circular building, a mix of Islamic and Catholic architecture, with the most exquisite porcelain work all over. (I will insert pictures soon) We walked around for a bit, closely examining the different tile work which showcased all the different regions of Spain. This city wasn't seizing to impress. On our walk back home we saw boards advertising the Champions league prequarterfinal between Barcelona and Stuttgart and we knew we had to watch it at a bar. One side of the cathedral was a Irish pub called Flaherty's which had a huge screen set up, and the place was full of people. There wasn't enough space, so we requested a middle eastern looking gentleman if we could share his table, and he duly agreed. It turned out to be a great table. 2 of his friends came by and they were extremely friendly. They were all Moroccans who had been in Spain 3 years, passionate about football, and living life respecting others. Once I learned that they knew French (one of the 5 they knew) I was elated and brought out my French. It's interesting that in Spain I have been approaching people in French and not in English. And the pleasure that follows when someone does speak French is, a feeling you might have when you discover that a stranger you met knows someone who is dear to you as well!
After a 1-1 draw we bid to our new friends and proceeded to find a place to party in a big group of 8 which included the 5 of us from Tech and the three kids from Portugal I met the previous night. Though the town seemed absolutely dead as we walked everywhere, we had a very great time just getting to know each other. We came back around 4 and in my mind I knew this was going to be my favorite city in Spain! It has a feel to it, did Seville. Something that put me to ease, something that made me relax.
The next morning, another destination awaited, though excited at the prospect of discovering other cities, my heart was heavy as I had fallen in love with Seville! The train rolled out of Seville Santa Justa...Valencia and Barcelona awaited!
Monday, February 22, 2010
The Spanish Flava!
As I wait for my train to Seville at Madrid's Peurto DE Atocha Station, I can't stop thinking of the wonderful time I had in Pamplona and Olite in the Navarra region of Spain.
Different weekend, different trip, however the same quench for discovering new places. Soon after being back from London, it was time to head to Spain as I had 9 days off from School. This meant no time to empty my bags from my previous trip and being on the road again. With our break clashing with the break of other French students, getting reservations on trains using our Eurorail was posing to be a challenge as everyone was traveling and there are only a certain amount of seats for Eurorail passengers. Me and some others boarded one of the few trains that would get us to Spain, eventually. I was to change three trains, over 24 hours to get to my first destination, Pamplona. In the modest amount of traveling I have done in bikes, cars, buses, trains and planes, but not ships yet, one thing that I realized very soon was, it is the journey itself that should be enjoyed and not just the destination. The sights and sounds of travel are something I cherish.
So we were off. Metz to Lyon Part Dieu in a 5 hour train; relatively slower than the TGV's one gets used to in France but much faster than some of the trains I traveled on in my childhood, which used to literally slowly chug along winding tracks, and slowly changing topographies. From Lyon an overnight train to Toulouse and then a continuation in that train to Irun, just across the border in Spain. It was about 11am on a beautiful Friday that we rolled into Irun. It was at once apparent that we were in Spain. The colorful houses, the signs, and the weather very Spainesque. Having never been to Spain, at least this is what I had imagined Spain to be. We had about 5 hours before my train to Pamplona so we decided to roam around Irun. My very first interaction with a Spaniard was delightful. A beautiful Spanish girl at Kodak store, who spoke very little, was intrigued to see 6 foreigners of different colors in her small town. Very friendly, she had something about her that told me that I am going to love being around people here. And it has seemed to be true till now. Despite the odd grouch, Spaniards seem really friendly and helpful. I guess it comes from the language, which is so boisterous and playful.
It was great roaming around Irun, there was beautiful sunshine out, and we just sat in a square, watching as life went on there. I was excited.
I left. Embarked on my journey in Spain. First stop Pamplona. My plans were to meet a Friend from UNC, who was son an exchange there. I knew she had planned a visit to a small town the next day. I got to Pamplona around evening. The mountains to the sides were gorgeous as we rolled into the station. With the help of the few words I had learnt in Spanish, the friendliness of the Spaniards, a broken conversation with a Spanish bus driver in French, and my perseverance to do find things myself, I somehow managed to get to the 10th floor of a gated building at the doorstep of my friend. Relieved that I actually found it, knowing only her address, I was ready to explore. We went into old town or 'insert word here' which was absolutely magnificent. Cobblestone alleys, small houses above shops and bars, and ever so many people roaming around to find a bar for the evening. My obvious first question was about Tapas, or the Spanish finger food that are known all over the world and my friend told me that they were actually called Pinchos in the northern part of Spain. Derived from a word that means to pinch, sort of making sense. We found a bar, and I wish I remembered the name but I don't. A counter-top, a few tables, and a lot of people standing around the bar. This was my first experience with Pinchos. In bars, all these foods lined and you pretty much tell the bartender what you would like to apart from what you would drink. The first thing I was made to try was Tosdadas Espaniadas ( I hope I spelt it right), a potato pancake sort of thing, wrapped in egg. Absolutely delicious. The second dish, and something I absolutely fell in love with, was the Patatas Bravas, or fried cubed potatoes topped with an incredible tomato sauce and mayonnaise. It sounds simple I know, but absolutely wonderful. We ended the night by walking around. Pamplona has wide roads, and a very good system for pedestrians. The night ended early as the next morning we were heading to a small town called Olite south of Pamplona.
It was a 45 minute bus journey, and it cost merely 3 euros. As we got off the bus in Olite, we were at once struck by the size of the place. It seemed like the bus had transported us a good 300-400 years ago, and no on
e us around but us. We knew had to visit a castle, and a wine museum, but didn't really have any directions. Turns out, they weren't required. A few steps forward and we noticed the castle up ahead. Walked a little more, and I already made my decision that this was the most quaint and most charming town I had ever been to. You know when you read about small cobblestone alley's behind houses, with people selling their produce here and there, this is what is seemed like. And it felt like we were the only people in town. We walked up to the castle made the little entrance fee and moved to discover this beautiful castle. The castle was built in 1420 but was restored in the early 1900's when it was found in ruins. It was a carefully planned tower, with guard towers, and ice well's where they stored ice in the summer, to the King and Queen's chamber and even a hanging garden. The castle was very well preserved and it was a treat to go about meandering through the castle. The view from the highest point, gave us a 360 degrees of Olite and the region around.
When we left the castle, it was around 1 and seemed like all of Olite's people were out, and looking for something to eat and drink on this gorgeous Sunday. We proceeded to a hole in the wall bar. At first glance it was easy to miss, but the number of people going in gave it away. Going in we realized, it was a whole bar, teeming with people. We at once had eyes on us, as we looked out of towners, but there was no lack of friendliness there. The people were joking and laughing and were welcoming to us in their hangout so at to speak. The bar had a nice ambiance, dimly lit and with a working fire place in one corner. It was time for more Pinchos and we got a plate of the fried Calamari. Lipsmackingly delicious is the word. We spent a good hour there chatting, eating and drinking, interrupted by the cutest old couple who spoke in such a hurry that it was almost fascinating. Around 3, the town was dead again. Not a soul around. The wind was still. The son shone bright, and the only sound seemed to be the unusual grinding like chatter of these long white birds perched on top of the castle. We sat in the square outside the wine museum, and it was the most 
amazing moment. The sunshine baking our bodies, the wonderful castle around us, and peace.
When the wine museum did open, we went it to learn about the wines of the region and the process of making wine. It was a small museum, but I learnt things I didn't know about wine. Like how it takes a whole year to cultivate it with interconnected steps, each heavily dependent on the other. We learnt about the different types of grape and the percentage of each grape in a yield; learnt about tasting wine and how it must be done properly. For every
2 tickets of 2.50 euros, one got a bottle of wine, and so did we.
The last hour of the day in Olite was spent in a local cafe, enjoying the local bakery items. As we took that bus back, we were so glad to have come to visit this town. It was a wonderful day trip, something I will take back from Spain. It was one of my first experiences here, and despite how the rest of the trip goes, I think it is the small towns that talk the language of a country, and this small town definitely spoke it well.
We were back in Pamplona for the night and it was to be a Grand Noche or big night as was planned my friends roommates. I was told Spaniards start their night off at bars, enjoying their pinchos and beer or wine. Then they move to a bar, where they drink hard liquor. At 4 when the bars close, they move to the club and don't end their night till about 7. I was very curious to see this, as it was hard to believe that people can party so long. So we joined my friend's group at the same bar I had gone to the first day. And wow was it something else. The elderly people were gone, the lights were off, and the ambient music was replaced by some serious Spanish chart toppers. We stayed there a little and moved to another bar. We were there for a good 3 hours dancing our brains out. I also tried a very interesting cocktail, which might sound weird but was actually delicious. It was half portion red wine mixed with half portion coke! We danced till about 4:30 and that's when the DJ just had to stop despite the begging of the crowd. We went home, I had had a great night. I was told this was normal to stay out this late. I just wonder what I might experience in Seville or Barcelona.
My visit to Pamplona was my first experience with Spain. And I am glad I got to do it the way locals do. My friend speaks Spanish and that made things easier. As I take my train to Seville, I take with me a phrase I think is enough to get by. Une Cerveca, por Farvor! (A beer, please)
More on my Spanish extravaganza soon!
Saturday, February 20, 2010
I'm in London Baby!
I know I have been a little lax in updating my blog but there was just so much going on that I couldn't post any earlier.
So here we were, in February and it was cold and I kinda was missing my love! Earlier plans had her coming to Metz but due to some delay in the visa it meant she wouldn't come till later. Well some of you might be familiar with the holiday that makes you wanna gag, but for us lovers it's a nice excuse to rekindle the love and exchange some gifts. Yes I am talking about Valentines Day!
So I booked my tickets to London on a Eurostar. The train goes from Paris Gare Du Nord to London St Pancras in little under 2 and a half hours. After a full day of classes, I made it just in time for my train from Metz to Paris. Before I came to France, my only memory of trains as such was the overnight trains I used to take as a child with my family up to the mountains in India to visit my grandfather. We used to take a lot of food and me and my sister you used to fight for the top bunk. As it would start moving, the food would be brought out, and the compartments would be filled with myriad aroma's.
Riding on trains here sort of makes me nostalgic and think of those younger times.. I still feel giddy when a train starts moving from the station, and slowly starts to pull away, as friends and family wave goodbye to their loved ones. In a way I think I love observing people. Behaviors, antics or emotions!
I got to Paris around 6:20 and had about 3 hours to kill before my train to London. As I roamed the streets of Paris, I could see people filling up the local brasseries and getting ready for a wonderful night in a wonderful city. (look out for an article on my day trip to Paris)
I looked around, saw the life go about and then went and plodded myself at Gare du Nord. Gare Du Nord is a marvelous station. With hoards of people, from locals to out of towners to even foreigners scampering around to find their train, that would take them to their destination. When I see people transit through airports and stations I always wonder, where they might be heading, what they might do there and what they might see there!
The Eurostar pulled out of Paris at 10:20, an hour later due to bad weather conditions in the North of France and England. I could feel the excitement rising as I would soon be in England and with my love. And for the first time I was going to live in London for 5 days. I was also curious to see if I could feel/hear or sense being under the channel, but unfortunately the tunnel ride took about 15 minutes and didn't feel anything different than the rest of the journey.
Arriving at St. Pancras, I remembered the first time I had come here and the memories attached. The same ceiling, the same corners, the same stores.
I was staying at a Friend's place in London and it turns out that he stays in one of the most central locations of London. On Bond street. At first when I arrived around midnight there seemed to be something going on, as the streets were blocked and the riot police was around. As it turns out the house next to where I was staying, had a facebook publicized party which went out of control, and there were about 2000 people in a very small space overlooking the marble arch. Kids climbed the house and were trashing the street. The situation was very volatile as British cops cannot touch students, despite what they might do until they are not breaking the law. And since this party was on public premises, they couldn't do anything about the drinking either. It was an interesting welcome to London. The first night passed.
The next day was typical British weather; Spitting rain and low temperatures. We wandered about town, still not being able to digest the fact that we were bang opposite Hyde park. We had dinner at a Trinidadian friends Aunt's house. She had the most charming house on Finchley road. Its a very nice part of town, with lovely British homes. After a great night of good food, vine and conversations we managed our way back home.
The next day we headed to Camden town. Camden is basically a large open market, with people selling a bunch of stuff. From witty t-shirts, to Abercrombie clothes from seized shipments, tatoos and goth stores to hats and even a store selling stuff made out of hemp! One thing that I love about England, and especially London, since it's such a multicultural pot of people, is that be it British, Asian, European, Trinidadian or Indian, every one has that British accent. For some it accentuates their original accent and for some it makes for one very interesting concoction.
Walking around, watching people walk around, we ate a little at the outdoor eateries, selling everything from Burritos and Nachos to India curry.
At night was the Valentines day Dinner. Dressed to impress, walking on the streets dressed in a sharp suit, I felt like quite a Londoner. It was a nice feeling, I think I won't mind working there if possible. For dinner we went to a restaurant called Giraffe, specializing in an around the world menu, that included a lamb burger with honeyed onions, a duck stir fry, ribs and much more. The ambiance was great and the food was as impressive. It was a wonderful evening, one that I will cherish for a long time.
The next few days we spent without much activity. I met a few friends from college studying abroad in England and met a few friends from back home in India studying/visiting England. It was fun catching up with them and it gave them a chance to meet my Love. Yes the mysterious woman I am so in love with.
Funnily enough, my only wish was to visit Nandos, and old favorite of mine, and as luck would have it, as we were walking around to search for a place for dinner one night, we saw Nando's at a corner and proceeded to eat there. Nando's is this chicken place, where they grill the chicken in their famous peri peri sauce and you get a variety of flavored peri peri sauces like the herb peri peri, the hot peri peri etc. to eat it with. It is absolutely lipsmacking.
It was one of the most perfect 5 days I spent. Wonderful place, wonderful food and most importantly the most wonderful person! Saying goodbye was hard as usual, and I sat on that Eurostar bound for Paris, I hoped that soon my love could come visit me in Metz. (If all goes well, March it shall be)
I was back to Metz and back to school, but the next week, or days from then was Spring break. Which meant another packed bag, another train, another city!
To Spain we go next!
So here we were, in February and it was cold and I kinda was missing my love! Earlier plans had her coming to Metz but due to some delay in the visa it meant she wouldn't come till later. Well some of you might be familiar with the holiday that makes you wanna gag, but for us lovers it's a nice excuse to rekindle the love and exchange some gifts. Yes I am talking about Valentines Day!
So I booked my tickets to London on a Eurostar. The train goes from Paris Gare Du Nord to London St Pancras in little under 2 and a half hours. After a full day of classes, I made it just in time for my train from Metz to Paris. Before I came to France, my only memory of trains as such was the overnight trains I used to take as a child with my family up to the mountains in India to visit my grandfather. We used to take a lot of food and me and my sister you used to fight for the top bunk. As it would start moving, the food would be brought out, and the compartments would be filled with myriad aroma's.
Riding on trains here sort of makes me nostalgic and think of those younger times.. I still feel giddy when a train starts moving from the station, and slowly starts to pull away, as friends and family wave goodbye to their loved ones. In a way I think I love observing people. Behaviors, antics or emotions!
I got to Paris around 6:20 and had about 3 hours to kill before my train to London. As I roamed the streets of Paris, I could see people filling up the local brasseries and getting ready for a wonderful night in a wonderful city. (look out for an article on my day trip to Paris)
I looked around, saw the life go about and then went and plodded myself at Gare du Nord. Gare Du Nord is a marvelous station. With hoards of people, from locals to out of towners to even foreigners scampering around to find their train, that would take them to their destination. When I see people transit through airports and stations I always wonder, where they might be heading, what they might do there and what they might see there!
The Eurostar pulled out of Paris at 10:20, an hour later due to bad weather conditions in the North of France and England. I could feel the excitement rising as I would soon be in England and with my love. And for the first time I was going to live in London for 5 days. I was also curious to see if I could feel/hear or sense being under the channel, but unfortunately the tunnel ride took about 15 minutes and didn't feel anything different than the rest of the journey.
Arriving at St. Pancras, I remembered the first time I had come here and the memories attached. The same ceiling, the same corners, the same stores.
I was staying at a Friend's place in London and it turns out that he stays in one of the most central locations of London. On Bond street. At first when I arrived around midnight there seemed to be something going on, as the streets were blocked and the riot police was around. As it turns out the house next to where I was staying, had a facebook publicized party which went out of control, and there were about 2000 people in a very small space overlooking the marble arch. Kids climbed the house and were trashing the street. The situation was very volatile as British cops cannot touch students, despite what they might do until they are not breaking the law. And since this party was on public premises, they couldn't do anything about the drinking either. It was an interesting welcome to London. The first night passed.
The next day was typical British weather; Spitting rain and low temperatures. We wandered about town, still not being able to digest the fact that we were bang opposite Hyde park. We had dinner at a Trinidadian friends Aunt's house. She had the most charming house on Finchley road. Its a very nice part of town, with lovely British homes. After a great night of good food, vine and conversations we managed our way back home.
The next day we headed to Camden town. Camden is basically a large open market, with people selling a bunch of stuff. From witty t-shirts, to Abercrombie clothes from seized shipments, tatoos and goth stores to hats and even a store selling stuff made out of hemp! One thing that I love about England, and especially London, since it's such a multicultural pot of people, is that be it British, Asian, European, Trinidadian or Indian, every one has that British accent. For some it accentuates their original accent and for some it makes for one very interesting concoction.
Walking around, watching people walk around, we ate a little at the outdoor eateries, selling everything from Burritos and Nachos to India curry.
At night was the Valentines day Dinner. Dressed to impress, walking on the streets dressed in a sharp suit, I felt like quite a Londoner. It was a nice feeling, I think I won't mind working there if possible. For dinner we went to a restaurant called Giraffe, specializing in an around the world menu, that included a lamb burger with honeyed onions, a duck stir fry, ribs and much more. The ambiance was great and the food was as impressive. It was a wonderful evening, one that I will cherish for a long time.
The next few days we spent without much activity. I met a few friends from college studying abroad in England and met a few friends from back home in India studying/visiting England. It was fun catching up with them and it gave them a chance to meet my Love. Yes the mysterious woman I am so in love with.
Funnily enough, my only wish was to visit Nandos, and old favorite of mine, and as luck would have it, as we were walking around to search for a place for dinner one night, we saw Nando's at a corner and proceeded to eat there. Nando's is this chicken place, where they grill the chicken in their famous peri peri sauce and you get a variety of flavored peri peri sauces like the herb peri peri, the hot peri peri etc. to eat it with. It is absolutely lipsmacking.
It was one of the most perfect 5 days I spent. Wonderful place, wonderful food and most importantly the most wonderful person! Saying goodbye was hard as usual, and I sat on that Eurostar bound for Paris, I hoped that soon my love could come visit me in Metz. (If all goes well, March it shall be)
I was back to Metz and back to school, but the next week, or days from then was Spring break. Which meant another packed bag, another train, another city!
To Spain we go next!
Monday, February 1, 2010
Je veux un boisson! Allons a Reims!
To the readers of this blog I say, comment ca va? Pardon my efforts to French, but since I have been here in France, I have tried, well if not my best, close to my best to try and speak/understand or think in French. I did French back in school from grade 6-10 and hardly ever was good at it. I sort of blame my teacher as he was completely disinterested in teaching us anything. But I was always fascinated by the language and would make an extra effort to roll my R's and sound as 'French' as I could. Being here in France, I found it all coming back to me. Not entirely, but part's of my dictionary, rules and basic sentence structure. I have made a group of French friends who really encourage me to speak it and well I kinda do. It's fun and I hope to be speaking a decent amount by the time I leave. More updates on that later...
Let's get to the interesting stuff. So where did I go this weekend. What fascinating European city did I discover. For those thinking Rome or Prague or Munich or something like that, you need to hold on for a little bit. I will get there. Just waiting on what is called a 'Carte Sejour'. It's sort of like a French residence card which will allow me to travel outside France.
So anyway, the destination of this weekend was a town called, Reims. Reims pronounced Raiinns with a French sort of emphasis on the 'Ra', is located in the Champagne region of France, north east of Paris. Yes you guessed it right, Champagne or Chalons et Champagne is where all the Champagne comes from. And yes I did drink some, so read on, for more on that...
So me and a bunch of us got up early on a Saturday morning to go visit Reims. It was a 3 hour ride there, on a non TGV, but very comfortable nonetheless and all of us managed to get some sleep. It had snowed recently the view outside was absolutely spectacular with snow covered fields miles on end. After dozing of a couple of times and reading a few dozen pages of 'The five people you meet in Heaven' by Mitch Albom, I was ready to start exploring. We got there at 10 to a very rare sunny day. One doesn't realize how much he cherishes something till he doesn't have it, and that's how we felt about the sun being out that morning. Leaving the station we were at once struck by what seemed to be a magnificent gate of some sort. We wandered around that a little before we spotted a mobile market. From my past experience in Strasbourg I knew how fun these makeshifts markets are, with people selling anything from spices and fresh seafood to furniture and clothes and really old yet unique knick knacks. We ate a little, watched a little and bought a little. To paint you a picture of the market, imagine a market in the 1900's with farmers bringing their fresh produce, the fishers selling their prized catch and some very soothing background music. That's what this market looked like. It was absolutely wonderful!
We started wandering again, (I was the 'Fearless' leader of the group mind you) knowing not much about the town or what it had to offer apart from the fact that we wanted to see the cathedral, which was apparently where they used to knight the kings of France, and visit a Champagne house or whatever you would call them. With one map in hand, a want to explore and more cameras than people we headed into Reims. The streets were sparsely populated, the air was snowy and the sun was playing peekaboo with the clouds, forming the most beautiful colours in the sky. We saw some great architecture around, without really knowing what it was. We came across a town square which had this magnificent statue around the center, and buses ran on cobbled streets around it.
We kept walking till we passed by an old cathedral. Being in Europe kind of spoils you in a way, as if it's not something out of the ordinary it doesn't catch your attention as such. Impressive but nonetheless we walked by while glancing at this church. We found the tourism office and sure enough made a reservation at the biggest Champagne house, Pomery. Unfortunately the tour was going to be in French, so me and Ivan(one of the guys in the group) would try to be the translators. As exciting as that sounds, if you're not a native French speaker, and you think you can speak, well try being a translator and you realize how little you know. Anyway read on...
After wandering a little more, we found an adorable Italian restaurant, which we unanimously decided to stop at. It was a small little thing with probably 5 tables, run by an Italian mom and pop who spoke adorable French. We were starving, and what better than some good pizza. I decided to unleash my French, and it resulted in us getting bread to munch before our meal. The pizza's were delicious and the company as it was turning out was even better. I have traveled a fair amount, for a fair amount of things, in a fair amount of places, with a fair amount of people, and I have come to a conclusion that the best travel is when you and you're company isn't rigid about things. Be free, and take it as it comes. And with this group I was with, we all were at ease, just enjoying the place and each others company... Moving on
After lunch, we hurried to get to what we had been waiting for. Try some champagne. We walked and we walked, and finally we turned a corner, and there it was. It looked like the factory in Will wonka. It was huge this place. Seemed very fantastical. We went in and were greeted by our French guide which turned out after the tour spoke English. I will summarize what I got from the tour. She showed us a huge staircase that led us some 30 meters underground to some 18km of alleyway's which housed some million gallons of champagne or even more, there was just too much. There were dark alleys with names of different cities of the world which turns out is for the different markets they started selling to back in the day, some long drawn out process of how you make the champagne, some random art in some of the galleries including a hanging carcass of John Allessi's Ferari and a random stack of Nutella. Yes the chocolate Nutella. Finally we got to it. The complimentary glass of champagne. Oh how much I savored that glass. Even though it was their cheapest glass of champagne(priced at 8.5 euros) it was to me really good. So with glasses of Champagne in our hands we got ready for a toast! To France we said! To France it is!
France and French people are turning out to be quite the contrary of what I expected. I find them to be helpful, warm and definitely welcoming. I don't know why people have such a bad impression of French people, but then I think to myself it must be the crass traveler. The traveler who doesn't respect the space, the way of life or the people of the place. Be nice, Ask around, people will gladly help!
With a very fulfilling day behind us, we tool the train back to Metz. Reims was absolutely wonderful. And that too not in the typical way that cities are, but just in the way that it had so much to offer and show, but it did so in the subtlest, most quiet manner. I would love to go back to the region, but with my time here so limited and the list of cities on my wish list so extensive, I might not find a way back. But hopefully through this blog and the pictures we took, I will be able to remember this place for a long time to come!
I feel privileged that I can travel! I would like to add my favorite quote here.
"Life is like a book, and those who don't travel, read only the first few pages."
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