Monday, February 22, 2010

The Spanish Flava!

As I wait for my train to Seville at Madrid's Peurto DE Atocha Station, I can't stop thinking of the wonderful time I had in Pamplona and Olite in the Navarra region of Spain.

Different weekend, different trip, however the same quench for discovering new places. Soon after being back from London, it was time to head to Spain as I had 9 days off from School. This meant no time to empty my bags from my previous trip and being on the road again. With our break clashing with the break of other French students, getting reservations on trains using our Eurorail was posing to be a challenge as everyone was traveling and there are only a certain amount of seats for Eurorail passengers. Me and some others boarded one of the few trains that would get us to Spain, eventually. I was to change three trains, over 24 hours to get to my first destination, Pamplona. In the modest amount of traveling I have done in bikes, cars, buses, trains and planes, but not ships yet, one thing that I realized very soon was, it is the journey itself that should be enjoyed and not just the destination. The sights and sounds of travel are something I cherish.

So we were off. Metz to Lyon Part Dieu in a 5 hour train; relatively slower than the TGV's one gets used to in France but much faster than some of the trains I traveled on in my childhood, which used to literally slowly chug along winding tracks, and slowly changing topographies. From Lyon an overnight train to Toulouse and then a continuation in that train to Irun, just across the border in Spain. It was about 11am on a beautiful Friday that we rolled into Irun. It was at once apparent that we were in Spain. The colorful houses, the signs, and the weather very Spainesque. Having never been to Spain, at least this is what I had imagined Spain to be. We had about 5 hours before my train to Pamplona so we decided to roam around Irun. My very first interaction with a Spaniard was delightful. A beautiful Spanish girl at Kodak store, who spoke very little, was intrigued to see 6 foreigners of different colors in her small town. Very friendly, she had something about her that told me that I am going to love being around people here. And it has seemed to be true till now. Despite the odd grouch, Spaniards seem really friendly and helpful. I guess it comes from the language, which is so boisterous and playful.

It was great roaming around Irun, there was beautiful sunshine out, and we just sat in a square, watching as life went on there. I was excited.

I left. Embarked on my journey in Spain. First stop Pamplona. My plans were to meet a Friend from UNC, who was son an exchange there. I knew she had planned a visit to a small town the next day. I got to Pamplona around evening. The mountains to the sides were gorgeous as we rolled into the station. With the help of the few words I had learnt in Spanish, the friendliness of the Spaniards, a broken conversation with a Spanish bus driver in French, and my perseverance to do find things myself, I somehow managed to get to the 10th floor of a gated building at the doorstep of my friend. Relieved that I actually found it, knowing only her address, I was ready to explore. We went into old town or 'insert word here' which was absolutely magnificent. Cobblestone alleys, small houses above shops and bars, and ever so many people roaming around to find a bar for the evening. My obvious first question was about Tapas, or the Spanish finger food that are known all over the world and my friend told me that they were actually called Pinchos in the northern part of Spain. Derived from a word that means to pinch, sort of making sense. We found a bar, and I wish I remembered the name but I don't. A counter-top, a few tables, and a lot of people standing around the bar. This was my first experience with Pinchos. In bars, all these foods lined and you pretty much tell the bartender what you would like to apart from what you would drink. The first thing I was made to try was Tosdadas Espaniadas ( I hope I spelt it right), a potato pancake sort of thing, wrapped in egg. Absolutely delicious. The second dish, and something I absolutely fell in love with, was the Patatas Bravas, or fried cubed potatoes topped with an incredible tomato sauce and mayonnaise. It sounds simple I know, but absolutely wonderful. We ended the night by walking around. Pamplona has wide roads, and a very good system for pedestrians. The night ended early as the next morning we were heading to a small town called Olite south of Pamplona.

It was a 45 minute bus journey, and it cost merely 3 euros. As we got off the bus in Olite, we were at once struck by the size of the place. It seemed like the bus had transported us a good 300-400 years ago, and no one us around but us. We knew had to visit a castle, and a wine museum, but didn't really have any directions. Turns out, they weren't required. A few steps forward and we noticed the castle up ahead. Walked a little more, and I already made my decision that this was the most quaint and most charming town I had ever been to. You know when you read about small cobblestone alley's behind houses, with people selling their produce here and there, this is what is seemed like. And it felt like we were the only people in town. We walked up to the castle made the little entrance fee and moved to discover this beautiful castle. The castle was built in 1420 but was restored in the early 1900's when it was found in ruins. It was a carefully planned tower, with guard towers, and ice well's where they stored ice in the summer, to the King and Queen's chamber and even a hanging garden. The castle was very well preserved and it was a treat to go about meandering through the castle. The view from the highest point, gave us a 360 degrees of Olite and the region around.

When we left the castle, it was around 1 and seemed like all of Olite's people were out, and looking for something to eat and drink on this gorgeous Sunday. We proceeded to a hole in the wall bar. At first glance it was easy to miss, but the number of people going in gave it away. Going in we realized, it was a whole bar, teeming with people. We at once had eyes on us, as we looked out of towners, but there was no lack of friendliness there. The people were joking and laughing and were welcoming to us in their hangout so at to speak. The bar had a nice ambiance, dimly lit and with a working fire place in one corner. It was time for more Pinchos and we got a plate of the fried Calamari. Lipsmackingly delicious is the word. We spent a good hour there chatting, eating and drinking, interrupted by the cutest old couple who spoke in such a hurry that it was almost fascinating. Around 3, the town was dead again. Not a soul around. The wind was still. The son shone bright, and the only sound seemed to be the unusual grinding like chatter of these long white birds perched on top of the castle. We sat in the square outside the wine museum, and it was the most amazing moment. The sunshine baking our bodies, the wonderful castle around us, and peace.

When the wine museum did open, we went it to learn about the wines of the region and the process of making wine. It was a small museum, but I learnt things I didn't know about wine. Like how it takes a whole year to cultivate it with interconnected steps, each heavily dependent on the other. We learnt about the different types of grape and the percentage of each grape in a yield; learnt about tasting wine and how it must be done properly. For every 2 tickets of 2.50 euros, one got a bottle of wine, and so did we.

The last hour of the day in Olite was spent in a local cafe, enjoying the local bakery items. As we took that bus back, we were so glad to have come to visit this town. It was a wonderful day trip, something I will take back from Spain. It was one of my first experiences here, and despite how the rest of the trip goes, I think it is the small towns that talk the language of a country, and this small town definitely spoke it well.

We were back in Pamplona for the night and it was to be a Grand Noche or big night as was planned my friends roommates. I was told Spaniards start their night off at bars, enjoying their pinchos and beer or wine. Then they move to a bar, where they drink hard liquor. At 4 when the bars close, they move to the club and don't end their night till about 7. I was very curious to see this, as it was hard to believe that people can party so long. So we joined my friend's group at the same bar I had gone to the first day. And wow was it something else. The elderly people were gone, the lights were off, and the ambient music was replaced by some serious Spanish chart toppers. We stayed there a little and moved to another bar. We were there for a good 3 hours dancing our brains out. I also tried a very interesting cocktail, which might sound weird but was actually delicious. It was half portion red wine mixed with half portion coke! We danced till about 4:30 and that's when the DJ just had to stop despite the begging of the crowd. We went home, I had had a great night. I was told this was normal to stay out this late. I just wonder what I might experience in Seville or Barcelona.

My visit to Pamplona was my first experience with Spain. And I am glad I got to do it the way locals do. My friend speaks Spanish and that made things easier. As I take my train to Seville, I take with me a phrase I think is enough to get by. Une Cerveca, por Farvor! (A beer, please)

More on my Spanish extravaganza soon!

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